Some fuzzy parts of my brain connected disparate bits of gathered info and I eventually remembered that there was a reason for the gala atmosphere out on the streets late last night: it was Greek Independence Day. We arrived right smack in the thick of a holiday weekend.
Well, today is Sunday and a Sunday is always a no work day, holiday trimmings or not, and so I have assumed, not incorrectly, that much of the city will stay closed and crowds will swell at famous Athenian sights. In France, markets do their biggest sales on Sunday morning (for that big Sunday meal that we're all supposed to serve this day), but this is southern Europe and the rules play out differently here.
So what do we do first? Snowdrop sleeps late and that's a good thing. And immediately after she wakes up, we go down to breakfast. Up on the roof.
And then begins our crazy spin through an incredible day full of sights, foods, a necessary police station visit (yes, we had to!), more food, music, laughter, swimming, calling, drawing. Not necessarily in that order. Let's see if I can straighten out the exhilarating chaos here for you!
We aim first for the Syntagma Square. It translates to "Constitution Square" and it is flanked by the 19th century Royal Palace that currently is home to the Greek Parliament. It's the hub of the city and it's only a block away from our hotel. And there are fountains. Do all kids love fountains or is it just her?
Notably, at 11 each Sunday, they have an elaborate changing of the guards. Worth catching, for the sheer pageantry of the event. And it allows for me to talk to Snowdrop about the more recent history of this country: about the change from a monarchy to a parliamentary governance, about a tomb of an unknown soldier. About a country's hymn's and traditions.
Because it is a Greek National holiday weekend, there are many, many Greeks forming throngs of eager watchers. The sun is hot, the clock moves slowly toward the hour of "change." But we got lucky. Across the street we find front row spots where she can sit on the curb and draw her own rendition of a changing of the guards and I can stare at the parade of costumed men taking their rhythmic steps...
And right after comes the promised time at the hotel pool. The one that's open, inside, in the basement. So small that they limit the people to just a handful at a time. We had to reserve our spot and at 11:30, there aren't many people looking to swim.
(in Wisconsin, there was a snowstorm...)
And predictably, she loves it!
For the early afternoon I found a Greek "food walk" for us. You basically pay a guide to introduce you to some of the Greek culture through a samplings of iconic Greek foods. (The group that offers this is called Athens Food on Foot; I warned them that Snowdrop can be very, very cautious about trying new things. They seemed willing to take us on anyway!)
Anna (who founded the company just a handful of years before Covid hit hard) meets us at the Acropolis Metro station. The day is brilliant -- plenty of sunshine! Short sleeves all the way!
Anna is knowledgable, well organized and in addition to sharing with us favorite food spots, she has us walk through places I myself would find difficult to get to, just because Google maps doesn't readily tell you to take those few steps here, and squeeze down those over there, and pull away from the route leading elsewhere in order to land the best glimpses of Athenian life. After starting us off on Greek yogurt (not frozen!) with honey and nuts...
... she leads us through that most stunning old cluster of white-washed homes, clinging to the edge of the Acropolis hill - the Anafiotika.
We pass murals of Greek Gods and Anna questions Snowdrop and of course, Snowdrop delivers a perfect summary of what god did what to whom and for what reason. Anna is impressed. I'm impressed.
And down again, we plunge into the Plaka, where we sample exquisite feta, other cheeses, pastrami and spiced prosciutto meats (Snowdrop loved these meats best!), olives and breadsticks.
We are on our way to a next stop when we pass a postcard store. I pick out a few to send back home. And this is when I first notice that my wallet is missing.
But how did it get snitched??? I had it last night after dinner, I didn't buy anything today thus far. I keep it zipped tight in my little purse that I wear across my chest. Someone would have to get real close to me, unzip my bag, take the damn thing out and zip the bag up again. Is that even possible?? Or, someone came to the room while we were swimming. [We had called maintenance because there was a leak in the bathroom. But of course, I have no proof, so I'll just say it's either a whiz of a pickpocket or... maintenance.]
I'll never find out.
I have alerts set up and so I know when someone is using my cards.
No one is using my cards. Chances are that the thief took the money and tossed the rest into a garbage can.
So now it's a bit of a mess. Anna makes a few calls and takes us to the police station where I file a theft report. She is so extremely helpful in speeding this process up for me that I have to say, I could not have met up with her at a better time! (She tells me that in one year, she had her cell phone stolen three different times; me, I'm glad it was not my cell phone!)
My next step is to call all credit card companies, but I save that for a bit. Again, no one is using my cards and I have a food tour to finish!
We go to a typical taverna with people, so many people, spilling out on all portions of the street at rickety tables, eating lunch (at 4!!). And we join this beautiful tumult of humanity and we eat meatballs and some double baked bread with tomatoes and feta and it is all so good, even if we are feeling stuffed already. (Anna says she has never seen people eat so little, but the fact is, Snowdrop is trying everything and I am too, there is just so much to try!)
(In the traditional taverna, there are no reservations. You wait a while, a table opens up...)
And still there is more -- an ice cream place where they make your ice cream on the spot, to order. Snowdrop is mesmerized!
(with Anna)
And now we cannot look at food, even though dinner is very very soon! Uff!
At the hotel, I take care the details surrounding the lost wallet, grateful that I always keep an extra card hidden in the depths of my belongings for just such emergencies. And then I put this whole matter out of my mind.
We eat dinner at Geros Tou Moria. That's a real plunge into a Greek Taverna setting with Greek menus and Greek music and a general Greek joie de vivre that is so very much a part of the culture here. Anna had affirmed this earlier: people never eat just to eat. They eat to share something with others.
(table outside)
(music inside)
In the end though, Snowdrop sees her fave on the manu -- spaghetti! -- and I allow her to go for it, so long as she tries both my dishes (shrimp in tomato/feta sauce and eggplant).
There are many street cats in Athens and I'm sure some people treat them well and others do not like them, but for us they are a tiny link to "back home" and so we sneak them some shellfish bits.
Someone is very very pleased tonight!
(while the Greek women talk on...)
Dessert? Ice cream again! Across the street from the hotel. Chocolate for the girl, baklava for me.
(we take it up the elevator, back to our room)
Would you agree that it was the fullest of full days?
With love...
