Saturday, August 27, 2022

Lago d'Orta

Today is slated to be the wettest of all our days here. There's no escaping  it (says the weather report): storms, rain, showers, all forms of cloudburst coming at us for most of the day.

So why is it that we wake up to sunshine?

It's a glorious morning! And in more ways than one: Snowdrop did not want to go to sleep last night until I was ready to put it all down myself, so rather than getting firm on her, I simply caved and went to bed. Given the hike, the swim, given everything, we both slept like logs. Waking up with that extra bounce made me think once again -- how many reasons do we need in life to move more and sit less?

Still, the sunshine messes with my plans! Meaning, I don't have plans! We were to spend the day doing art projects and reading books. None of this makes sense when the sky is beautiful and inviting.

What's a person to do?

Snowdrop tugs at my sleeve -- you said we could kayak...

Breakfast first, of course.






And then Tiziano, the water sports guy here, helps load us into a two person kayak. Getting Snowdrop into a bobbing kayak from a high deck is tricky business, but we managed to load up without anyone falling in the water. An accomplishment!

And here, Tiziano shows his local talents once again. He points to the opposite shore and tells me: cross the lake and stick to that side. When you pass the big cliff, look for a little beach. She can swim there. And there'll be a waterfall too!

Cross the lake. Well now. It's a fat lake! And the cliff? It's kind of far. Slowly we move out of our sheltered bay.




Oh my! Do you see what's around the bend? Yes, Omegna -- the town we drove to yesterday. But from the perspective of the lake, you appreciate its true setting at the foot of the Alps.




I'm awed. But it gets better: eventually (meaning an hour after we set out) we find the tiny beach Tiziano was guiding us to. We pull in -- easy peasy to get in and out on a beach! 

A few Italians, their dog, one or two power boats. The scene is one of leisure and camaraderie. This is why Covid was so hard on this nation. It took a while before they were convinced that this, this camaraderie had to stop during a total shutdown.

Snowdrop runs off in search of the waterfall. She finds it and it is enchanting!




The water flows, of course, into the lake. 




And yes, the lake is deep, but Tiziano suggested she use the life jacket for swimming. She does and it's perfect.




In the lake the sandy bottom is littered with sparkling pebbles, releasing golden sparkles into the water. Honestly, it's magical!




We stay way too long. I can hardly pull her away.




But, the boat rental has long run out and besides, there are clouds coming in from the mountains. There will be rain. Maybe.

I paddle. She tries it too, and she's good, but she way prefers having me do the hard work. 




She loses herself in her fantastic stories and that's fine. I'm up for the job! I popped the blister early on!

Not surprisingly, it took longer for me to paddle back. The winds had picked up a little and, too, this grandma is tired!

Tiziano and another Laqua person were there to help, though climbing out onto the pier was easier than popping into a wobbly boat. Tiziano said -- madame, I can tell you that you are the only one from the resort that got to that little beach without the help of a motor. His friend chimes in -- I can confirm that! I'd like to believe that this speaks to my powerful paddling abilities and for a moment I feel proud. Then I remember the total relaxation goals of the people who come here and I step out of my little self congratulatory bubble. It's not me, it's them. But later, Tiziano tells me -- you know yesterday's hike? That was the first time I ever lead a grandmother and her granddaughter up that mountain. Very cool!

I point out that grandmothers these days are older, but still, this is stuff I love to do. He acknowledges the age issue: my grandma had my father when she was 16. My father had me when he was 21. I'm 25 and not thinking about kids! Still, I do not know any grandmothers who do this stuff with their grandkids. He repeats -- very cool. Bubble of happiness forms again.


Lunch? In our room: pasta for her, a fantastic caprese for me.




And in the afternoon, we return to the pool, keeping an eye to the skies. A light drizzle passes through. Snowdrop swims anyway. The air is warm, summer is still with us here. What wonderful luck to have had this much good weather!



Evening. Snowdrop and I are reading together. First time on this trip! I order a Negroni for the room. I love that quintessentially Italian aperitif and I never have it at home -- too many steps, too much fuss. But in Italy? That's another story. Roberto at the reception, the guy who has worked with me through all my quirky reservations and travel plans says -- Negroni? You live what I would call my perfect vacation! Italians know how to say just the right thing to vacationing grandmothers.


Dinner for us is at il Cortile. We'd lunched there before and it's a fine choice for a walking distance eatery...

(Here's the vegetation that we see on this walk. Didn't I note that the lakes in Northern Italy have their own micro climate?)




... where Snowdrop can indulge her pizza love. And where I can calm down my credit card. Il Cortile is where the locals come, especially on a Saturday night. The food is really cheap and about as simple as you can get. The pizzas, of course, are Italian-great. Me, I ordered a fish with lemon. I got a fish with half a lemon next to it. A beautifully pan fried fish. 




With it, I picked an arugula salad also with lemon. Same. Arugula leaves and a chunk of lemon at the side (there will always be a bottle of olive oil on the table). So simple, so inexpensive that it wont break anyone's budget here. I daresay my Negroni at the hotel was half the price of the entire meal at il Cortile. Different clients, different expectations.

Snowdrop often works on a sketch in a little notebook during the wait for dinner, but tonight I had forgotten her booklet and so I handed over my iPhone and told her she could text her mommy while we wait.




The girl loves texting and she loves working with emojis, but there was, of course, a deeper purpose here as well: when she is with me, she does not feel alone. I have been so much part of her world that she never hesitates when offered a trip or an adventure with me. Nonetheless, she is close to her immediate family and super close to her mommy and though she rarely says it, I know she misses her in some of the more challenging moments. 

Thunder rumbled in the distance on and off into the evening. As we walk home, we feel the occasional raindrop, but the storms never come. Not today anyway. We are so grateful! 

With love...