Avanti popolo! (Head forth into the second day in Venice)

Venice in the afternoon is not the Venice of early morning or dusk. Thus, to me, it was worth rising at dawn to see the gentle colors, reflected, of course, in the still waters of the canals (and the empty spaces: you could not catch St. Mark’s looking this deserted otherwise).

it's not a painting 

morning wash 

at dawn, there is hardly a soul... 

You have to love the Italians for being so deliberately helpful or unhelpful, depending on their inclination. No one, absolutely no one at the hotel believed me when I said yesterday that the room had no electrical outlets. One by one, they came up to inspect and shake their head in amazement. Of course, you can’t rewire the place because I want to recharge my camera, but the theatrics of the parade were hilarious.

But I also remember last night’s dinner, where the owner kept pausing to chat because it was a slow night. He talked about how important it was for his grandfather to locate the restaurant close to the fish market way back when and how the menu has remained true to these nautical roots. Since I was incapable of deciding what to order, he came forth with a special plate of favorite selections, all arranged on a bed of arugula and raddichio.

a simple setting for delicious food 

Early today I scooted over to the market – no forager obligations! How nice…

ready for stuffing 

veggies of the Veneto 

Or, consider this morning. On a small side street of this neighborhood, a sculptor has set up a workshop. Out of fragments of 2000 year old stone found on Venetian islands, he chisels faces, true to images painted on ancient clay pots.

It was indeed love at first sight – with the man and his art. And, I loved the fact that he began his passion at the age of fifty (I’m only one year behind schedule in finding my own creative passion; no, the blog does not count; yes, I did start it when I was fifty; come on, I can do better than a blog!) – before, he had worked in monument restoration.

Yes, against great protest from within, I purchased something that weighs a ton but is so beautiful that I could not resist it. [Again, please do NOT tell me if you don’t find it so exceptionally striking.]

okay, the photo doesn't do it justice 

Today’s walk was through a neighborhood that used to be a favorite. Now it’s somewhat gentrified – you can tell by the appearance of expensive locks on the perfectly painted doors. Still it has the beautiful colors of Venetian houses and it is also home to a favorite, fantastic, phenomenal pizza place – worth returning to as many times as is humanly possible.

the best one has mushrooms and artichoke 

I need add nothing more here.. 

Finally, I wanted to note the ubiquitous Venetian lawn sign of the year. What, no lawns? Will windows do?

so many windows are displaying this banner!