Bonjour!
We all keep our eyes open when we travel. But we notice different things. Usually we carry our baggage with us and we stay with our expectations and preconceptions and we look for ways to validate them. It's human nature. Though I try hard not to fall into that trap, I can be guilty of it too: I come to Paris because the city has become something important to me and when I come here, I validate its importance.
Still, I do try to force open that closed door that keeps us from seeing life in new ways and one thing that I find myself seeking out is vignettes that contain images of the older traveler. I suppose it's been this way for a while. I remember when I used to go frequently to Gargnano by Lago di Garda in Italy, I was keenly aware of the older couple (Austrian, I think) who frequently stayed at my little hotel. I know I wrote about them here. I had thought the gentleman was the hotel proprietor's father until it became clear that the hotel proprietor was merely gentle with him as you would be with an elderly friend. What struck me then was how hard the older visitor worked to find joy in what was tough going for him. His wife was infirm, he was not very mobile himself, they had had a bad year. And yet here they were, the old man and his old wife, on their annual trip to Gargnano, playing duets on the piano with the hotel proprietor. It's a scene I think back to often.
This time in Paris, I noted the older grandfather at yesterday's breakfast and today, I see a grandmother (surely she is that!) with her teenage grandson. He's delightfully attentive, but it's her smile that captures my heart. It's so genuine and kind. The waiter brings the wrong coffee. She assures him she will try it and probably like it. She doesn't like it. She doesn't tell him. She moves slowly and her grandson helps here and there. You can feel the love they share. And the utter joy she experiences being with him. Her eyes never stop smiling.
(And here's another grandmother -- with a somewhat younger grandson. Friends for sure.)
These people are my teachers. Their ability to create pleasure for others and therefore for themselves even as they age is a skill I want to have and I work on this all the time.
These are my thoughts this morning at breakfast on the patio of the d'Aubisson.
The young family is sleeping in again. I do my morning solo walk. Sort of like my walk to the barn, only different!
(older Parisian walking her dog... questions remain: is she really from here? then why the backpack?)
(the quiet of Place Dauphine in the morning...)
(older guy to the right, younger guy to the left)
And now the young family comes down for breakfast.
(croissant with strawberry jam -- mmmm!)
The plan is for them to head out to Montmartre. I decided to stay on the Left Bank. Pop into some shops, muse a little, wander around. I don't need extra time alone in Paris and I treasure all my ramblings with the awesome foursome, but Montmartre is a climb and my most recent walk there was enough to last me a while. I'll be that more restful grandmother today, preparing myself for an evening with the young ones.
(off they go!)
(off I go -- to the park.)
Lunchtime? Seems a lemon tart would make a fine midday meal!
Life becomes so much easier with the introduction of text messages. Honestly, so much easier! I find out that the young family reversed course and went to the Marais instead. This means we can meet up on their walk back. At the beach!
For nearly two months, Paris creates "beach-like" spaces by the River Seine. For relaxation, play, for snacks and drinks. For those sad Parisians who do not leave the city in the summer. For the visitors too! The beaches opened last week and they're a great place for an afternoon stroll. Of course, we've all been strolling nearly nonstop, but still -- this space is worth a detour.
At first we just take in the river breezes...
But toward the end, we come across a child-focused stretch. This is where Primrose and Juniper let loose!
They climb (because if one does it, so will the other).
And they cool off at the mist station. I've seen mist used as a cooling device in Parisian restaurants -- at least around the outdoor tables. But this cooling place is bigger, somewhat wetter and terrific fun for the kids.
Yes, they do get a little "damp," but it's getting hot out there again. 84F (29C), so not as bad as the first evening in Paris, but still, the cooling station is fabulous for those who dare dampen themselves with a cool spray.
From there, it's just a stroll...
... over the river once again...
Straight to the ice cream store! (yes, I have some too...)
In the evening the young couple has time for their own exploration of Paris. I stay with the girls.
We order room service for dinner because I'm not too sure a restaurant meal is easy for the three of us, given Juniper's age and my being alone with them. Room service is a fun way to get some food into kids.
(...and me!)
In the discomfort of a small eating space, there is plenty of room for laughter.
Pastries, cherries and apricots round off the meal.
I can't get Primrose to agree to another outing, but we do go downstairs for a few minutes to listen to the jazz recital in the hotel's lounge.
All my grandkids love to dance spontaneously to music, but it's fair to say that Juniper is the quickest to jump into rhythmic movements when she hears a song.
We're off to the side and still, the girls get a lot of nods and smiles, including from the performer herself.
It is, however, a rather staid audience and so I don't push it. I move the girls out further, toward the entrance lobby and lo, Juniper heads right for the door. Which opens for her.
The girl knows how to get a laugh out of us. Her "escape" remains a total source of giddy amusement for her sister for the rest of the day.
And now most definitely it is time to say bonne nuit! May the moon shine brightly over you tonight...
