Monday, June 16, 2025

fish, rides and Sweden

Not long ago, I told Snowdrop that a remarkable bridge had been constructed, linking Denmark with Sweden. Nearly five miles long, the Øresund Bridge crosses the channel that links the Baltic Sea and the North Sea. Since the year 2000 you could get from Copenhagen to Sweden by train, within minutes. Right away, she asked -- could we go? I like it when she has preferences and requests. On this trip, she had them for Denmark, Paris and Iceland. I tried to fulfill all of them,  so that she'd have a hand in the planning. So I said sure.

We slept late this morning. (I woke at five, took a look at a new room highlight -- we scored a real upgrade because of the problems with the old room -- and went back to sleep.)


 

You can't be surprised at the late wake-up. We've had three days in a row of a post-midnight bedtime! Still, we are speedy in the morning. By 9:30 we are eating breakfast. No pretense on my part: I'm just going for the Danish pastries. Today's -- with poppy seeds. And yogurt and fruit. She stays with the pancake and croissant. What can I say, we like our choices! 

(I show her an email with the announced cast for this summer's Young Shakespeare Players production: she is thrilled with her part of Hermia from Midsummer Nights Dream)


 

(in the elevator: she is a child, not too old to act goofy)

 

 

We signed up for something this morning: the hotel staff told us that they can arrange for guests to go behind the scenes at the aquarium and participate in a fish feeding. No cost! Can we do it? -- I ask. I'm afraid it's too late to sign up. (Then, after problems arose with our room: ) Actually, we managed to get permission for you to do it this Monday morning

At 10:30, we are at the Aquarium. We're there for close to 30 minutes and the person who works there is wonderful. He teaches us about the different fish, their gender changes (the clown fish is always born male, but the stronger ones change to female in adulthood!), their eating and hiding habits.



Would you like to feed the big ones now? -- the Aquarium fish-keeper asks.

Snowdrop initially hangs back. Perhaps the idea of handling chopped raw seafood is off-putting.  But within seconds, once she sees that you wear gloves, and you can throw food if you don't want to stick your hand in the water until they bite, she is on board! Again and again.



Both of us loved this little lesson in aquatic life.

We still manage to be at her ride of choice for this morning just before Tivoli opens to the public, though honestly, on a Monday morning, it hardly matters: it's not crowded at all. At least not in mid June. (Schools close for the summer in Copenhagen on June 30th and reopen in mid-Agust.) 

Snowdrop gave herself the goal of trying one scary new ride each day -- first thing in the morning. This morning she wanted to do this one:



It's tall! You can see this Tivoli tower from afar. You see the way it works. The circle of spinners goes up, spinning rapidly of course, all the way to the top, where it stays for a while before coming down. 

 (she's waiting, just a little apprehensively...)


 

But at the moment of opening, the ride operators announce that the winds are too fierce today. It is, in fact, a cool and blustery day. And so it's a no go. Is she disappointed? Not at all. She tried, it didn't work out. She's fine with that. She spends the rest of the morning going between her favorites. And winning a silly bouncy ball at the duckie fishing pond.



(in her new shoes that are not too tight!)






(on this one, she has to climb to the top pulling herself up with the rope; it's not a popular ride -- you have to work!)


 

Satisfied and satiated (for now), we go back to the hotel and study the train schedules. The trains are relatively frequent. The Copenhagen Central Station is just across the street for us. We figure out the ticketing machines and pick up the 1:30. 

One reason why I like this adventure is that it does allow Snowdrop to figure out how to manage the transportation system here. She is the one working the machines to get tickets, picking out the right train and platform, getting us to it on time. This lesson in managing in a country where you do not speak the language is valuable, I think.

(on the bridge now...)


 

We get off at Malmo. This is Sweden's third largest city (after Stockholm and Gothenburg) and I can tell you right now we aim to see very little of it. It may or may not be interesting from a visitor perspective. I don't try to find out. We haven't the time, and I find little value in exploring big cities in an hour or two. What we do want is a lunch here and our hotel desk person, who himself is from Malmo, directed us to the Malmo Saluhall

(walking to the Saluhall)


 

It's a food court with very good, freshly prepared foods. 

 


 

It's not crowded and we quickly decide on our selections (which we take outside): I opt for herring with bread, followed by coffee and a cardamon roll. I'm trying to be Scandinavian! She without hesitation orders fish and chips.

(Gaga! The fish is haddock!) 


(herring)

 

 

(haddock)


 

 (cardamon buns)


 

 

(Walking back to the station)


 

 


 

 We run to make the 15:20 back to Copenhagen -- a 41 minute ride.



(from the station to our hotel, reflections...)


 

 

I do have to pack us up today as we're leaving for Paris tomorrow morning. I booked dinner again at the Nimb Brasserie, for the sheer ease of eating here. I feel (and Snowdrop would agree) that our best meal thus far was yesterday. We are so happy with it that there's no need to keep on searching for another superb dinner. And the one at the Brasserie is just fine: she asks for three oysters, followed by a dish of fish of the day (plaice) from the kids menu. She and I both like the way they prepare vegetables -- for kids and adults alike. I go with asparagus, Norwegian shrimp (tiny!), and sole. After last night's success story with Danish (nonalcoholic) wine, I try another one. Alas, it doesn't compare.



We end the day, and really our Denmark adventure with an evening walk through Tivoli. Of course.

She asks for cotton candy for dessert and more importantly -- to end her visit here with her two favorite rides. This one, coming in second:

 


 

 

(it's still very windy, but at this height, this particular ride is not affected) 


 

And hands down the first place winner -- this one, a ride that puts her in a happy place.  She must have gone on it at least twenty times!

(I could recognize those dangling shoes anywhere!)


 

Evening. Bedtime will be for sure before midnight. I hope. 

with so much love...