Thursday, March 31, 2022

from Venice to Paris

Wow, what good fortune. Or rather, what an absence of real bad luck. Or is it that I do not take for granted all the ways in which we averted travel headaches? I appreciate every wrinkle-free detail of our days. I know snafus make for good stories later, but right now, I like the slow coast through adventures without too much trouble. And today was one of those days without too much trouble. From the beginning.

First thing to note: we could have had a rough day of it. Snowdrop went to bed too late last night. That was my fault: I was hurrying to work through photos and I said ten more minutes, then I forgot myself and it was nearly ten when I realized she was still up.

Too, she still does the new time zone wake-up and separately, so do I. She is extremely easy to put to bed and to transition to sleep, but still, it does mean that I need to build in a cushion into the night for wakeful moments. I did not build in that cushion last night.

Finally, we have a flight to catch at noon. So we can't just sleep in. Now, how early to get to the airport? The million dollar question! Early, if there will be lines and chaos. Later, if it's Madison, or an equally smooth pass through the various checkpoints. Basically, it's a great unknown.

I do choose to book a taxi over to the port of the airport. From there, it's about a ten-fifteen minute walk. Can we manage with three bags and two backpacks? Will she be up for the challenge, given the short night? 

And finally, there is the weather. It started to rain today. The Venetians I'm sure are deliriously happy. The tourists -- less so. I know Venice is atmospheric when it's damp and you need an umbrella, but for us, it would have been less fun to navigate it in the rain, especially since almost all our activities were outdoors. But it held off until this morning - how good is that!

So, how did we cope? I woke up Snowdrop and without complaint, the girl hopped in and out of the shower in minutes. We were down for breakfast in plenty of time, though both of us ate very modest breakfasts. It felt early, even though it was getting late.




I did have to go an ATM -- all these taxi people like cash (as does the hotel maid), and thankfully the hotel offered us their umbrella so I did not have to get ours wet. A fun little outing for one last look at Venice, a city of umbrellas today.






Good bye you fascinating and beautiful place!




We were early for our taxi and from the port, Snowdrop maneuvered her own suitcase and carried her own heavy pack...




... and there was no chaos at the gate or at security and so we had time to sit down for a coffee (for me) and an S cookie (for her).







And then we were off, which itself was no small accomplishment as the earlier Air France flight today was cancelled. Maybe the strike is still on at the airport? Who knows...

I did watch Snowdrop's face crumble when she finally settled with relief into her seat on board, and her tablet malfunctioned. Blasted technology! You take a book, you open it, it's always there, unless you spill coffee all over it and the pages stick together. But a tablet depends on... who knows what. So yes, a disappointed girl. But, on the upside, she is mature enough to recover quickly. And to compensate, I offered  to read to her from her Dogman Book. Typically these are hers to read and reread and reread, but I'm told it's fun when I take on the characters and do it for her. I'm not sure the whole Air France cabin appreciated my character interpretations, but there you have it. [I was reminded that we are changing cultures. French people tend to be quiet in public spaces. Yesterday, when Martina wanted to get her cab guy's attention, she shouted out to him across the lagoon. Then she caught herself and smiled apologetically. We Italians, we're so loud! Yes you are. One more reason why it's so cool to bring children along to your country!]

(Tablet working!)




Because of Covid, I now skip the crowded train to central Paris and I dish out the cash for a taxi. And now we are here, in my beloved room of my beloved Paris Hotel Baume. Only this time, the bed is made up for two: grandma and granddaughter, traveling together.

(The hotel outdid itself in its welcome: we are without much food today and our fruit consumption this week has plummeted and so I was touched to the core by the plate of deliciousness and the books for Snowdrop... she devoured all the oranges and berries within seconds, and I gobbled all the red currants.)







So happy to be here! I dont know a place that treats its guests better.

Honestly, it's tough to step out. The luxury of not being in a hurry hits hard in the belly. Snowdrop is delighted to be given tablet time and me, I could just take my sneak peak out the window and embrace the grandness of being in Paris, and at the Baume again.




But we do need to eat dinner and in this last day of March, the Luxembourg Gardens (just two blocks up from my hotel) are open until 7:30, so she and I take a detoured walk through them. This, to me, is always the most beautiful beginning to any Paris visit and right now, the tulips and primroses and forget-me-nots are at in top form. Heaven...










By the way, one gust of a chilly wind and Snowdrop asks for her jacket. It is much cooler here than it was in Venice.

(A quick stop at the local bakery: at last I can stock up on some macarons for the long evenings spent on Ocean posts!)




We eat dinner at a place that is actually just a breath away from our hotel: Les Editeurs. Anyone who reads Ocean and who keeps track of eateries will recognize the name. I've eaten breakfasts, lunches and dinners there numerous times, including with the kids and grandkids. It's just convenient and spacious and there's something on the menu reliably okay for them and it requires no effort. 




I already told Snowdrop to switch her cultural mindset: from pasta and pizza we move to pommes frites and roasted meats. Today, she opted for steak frites.

And profiterolles for dessert.




Shared.

And around us, the French were fully engaged in life as they knew it. I may have seen a half dozen masks on people since we landed here in the afternoon. What a difference a border makes!




I would share in their desire to move on and at least for now, forget that there is a Covid virus on the loose, but unfortunately, the US still requires a negative Covid test before reentering the country. And so I loosen Snowdrop's precautions (it's nearly impossible for her to get an Omicron variant), but I keep my own mask handy.

(looking out at the world)




That's okay: at the moment, her happiness is my happiness.




And now is the time for all little children to be in bed! Between the macarons and profiteroles, we're having a much much longer bedtime routine. Truly the city where no one ever sleeps. Still, I am determined to keep us to better habits. Goodnight to you as well.

With a happy smile and love, from Paris.