Thursday, August 07, 2025

Osøyro, Norway

Did I doze on the flight to Amsterdam? I cannot tell. I put on a sitcom and let the episodes fly on my screen. The seat belt sign remained on for a good part of the flight, which, I think is more the result of Delta's episode last week, where a flight (to Amsterdam!) experienced sudden turbulence and 25 people had to be transported to the hospital upon landing. I didn't think our flight today was especially stressful, but then maybe it's the bubbly wine speaking. I went off my "no more alcohol" lifestyle for the evening, to celebrate the fact that I managed to actually pack my suitcase in a timely manner.

In Amsterdam, I had a three hour layover, which frankly is just fine. The passport lines are almost always long, and the walk from one end of the airport to the next is equally lengthy. With so much time, I was worry free and even gave myself a long pause over coffee and a "breakfast" of a sweet roll (or two), even though it was already past noon Europe time. 

(breakfast in Amsterdam... airport.)


 

(sweet and caffeinated)

 

 

From Amsterdam I flew to Bergen -- Norway's second largest city. Though don't let that lead you to images of a behemoth. Bergen's population is just under that of Madison. 

It's a short flight. 90 minutes after leaving warm Amsterdam, I enter a world of clouds, cool temps, wind, and rain. And it will remain thus for the three days that I am here. And by "here," I do not mean Bergen. I only flew there to be on the western coast of the country. From Bergen Airport, I cabbed over (or really under -- we went through a tmountain unnel that was at least six miles long) to Osøyro -- a small town on the coast of the Bjørnafjorden. In this southwestern corner of Norway, I found the very old (accepting guests since 1896), and very simple, airy and lovely Solstrand Hotel

On the one hand, I wish it wouldn't be raining and so cold here. On the other -- I don't care that much. I'm not here for the hikes. And I'm on a half-board plan, so I eat dinners at the hotel. As far as I can tell, this place is perfect for what I need: time to unwind. To think. To look out at the fjord. 

I'd only been to Norway once before -- back in 2007 (thus documented on Ocean!) and it was a very weird trip then: I flew to Oslo from Turkey with my daughter and left her in Norway's capital with her dad for a few days (he had an Oslo conference), while I went off to see the fjords. I took the train almost to Bergen and then eventually made my way to Lofthus. That turns out to be not so far from where I am now, but Osøyro has the advantage of being very easy to get to from America. Fly to Bergen, then half an hour later you are at the Solstrand. Remote, quiet, beautiful -- and yet I can get here and out again without great fuss.

My first impressions? Well, it is wet and so the views out my room are muted. But there are windows on two sides... 

 


... and Norway's fjords are stunning even in the worst weather.





There is a heated indoor/outdoor pool, open late into the night. I understand people also swim in the fjord -- there is a path to a pebble beach. 

 


 

A sauna will warm you up afterwards. All this appeals to me in principle. But, not tonight. For this day, a brief hotel stroll, a peak at the pool, the fjord, and then I am in my room, unpacking a little, getting ready for dinner.

There is some choice: you can pick a meat, a fish, or a vegetarian option for your main course. The meat today happens to be local duck and I do eat fowl so duck it is! With a scallop appetizer.



There is a dessert buffet which honestly sounds great but is on the excessively sweet side of things. I also ordered a glass of sparkling non alcoholic wine and that, too, was too sweet and juicy, but the local non alcoholic beer was great.

I look around me: a good chunk of the dining room is speaking American English. The rest -- Norwegian. Older couples, younger couples. Just a few children -- I cant see this as an optimal spot for wee ones. But so very good for a slow and contemplative few days. That's the plan: look out at the water and unwind. Get the knots out. Clear the head. Sounds wonderful, doesn't it?

with love...