Florida

The Atlantic Ocean beach grows shady and gloomy here in the afternoon. (We're at the Vero Beach hotel, right at the water's edge.) The buildings are so close to the water that they shade the setting sun to the west. I suppose on a hot day you could grow to like the completely sunless beach. And here's who does like it: turtles. The stretch of coastline in this county, I'm told, is the largest turtle nesting place in the world. Loggerhead, Green, Leatherback. Thousands of nests exactly in these months. (They do not like light. They come out toward dusk or in the dark.) To me, it seems a little unreal. So much shade, on a beach! But this morning! Ah, this morning... Sunrise is right there before us.

Looking out from our balcony, it is just stunning.

(and now that the sun is out... time to get going!)

Breakfast. Not a buffet style. Snowdrop orders pancakes and is very happy. I look at the stack and wonder why on earth they serve portions that no one (let alone a child) can ever finish.

Then we do some last minute switching around. My plan to eat meals at the hotel got foiled by the hotel's sudden closure of their restaurant due to some Halloween private event. This turns out to be a blessing for us, as the food was unexceptional and terribly expensive (by my budget). Turns out there are eateries within walking distance. This is just splendid! I book a dinner on the island at an Italian place -- something I know will make the girl happy.

I'd already decided that our stay here will be all beach. For the pool -- we'll return to Orlando tomorrow. We pick up a stray bucket, for Snowdrop to use, at the hotel counter, but, too, we walk over to the Vero Beach junk store (it's not called a junk store but honestly, that's what you find in local souvenir places) to check out what's there. For the beach and to take home for the brothers. For us? T-shirts with turtles of course.

(going shopping in a swim suit...)

Though what the girl really wants is the stuffed mama turtles with their babes, right there in the hotel gift shop. To commemorate this turtle paradise.

(you can read about it here)

Now for some serious beach activity!

 

She works with the one bucket and with collected shells.

(looking inland toward our small but large for the area four-story hotel)

And here's the rub -- the ocean isn't really for kid swimming. There are rip current warnings everywhere, and even without those, you can tell that the waters are not friendly to anyone except the strongest swimmer. I see no one in the water. So it's splash and play for us.

(funny! she just wrote a short graphic story about a crab...)

And that's just fine. We wanted beach. We got beach. And warm sunshine. What more could you possibly ask for!

(a passerby asked if we wanted a windy picture...)

Lunch? We eat outside, at tables to the side of the pool, because the girl spotted grilled octopus on the menu and this child, true pescatarian that she is, really loves grilled octopus.

(during our travel meals, Snowdrop often fills little booklets with graphic stories... she now has quite the collection)

We take a Vero Beach (the island) walk afterwards. (Mostly because she heard there is a Kilwins ice cream place in town and me -- I want a cup of good coffee.) 

Walking along "Ocean Drive" (which, rather obviously hugs the ocean) reminds me so much of my Florida trips way back. On the side of the beaches, you see one and two story motels. On the other side -- shops that cater to visitors in those motels. Insofar as I see people -- they are middle aged or seniors, but of course this is because schools are keeping kids away right now. (Only Snowdrop's has this oddly placed late October break.)

It is incredibly hot. I mean, the thermometer will tell you it's 83f/28c, but on the street, where no breezes come in from the ocean, the unshaded walkway is toasty warm. Snowdrop wonders how people manage in the even hotter summers. Indeed, when people ask us where we're from and we tell them it's Wisconsin, we get the sympathetic response that it must be "so cold" there now. She always protests that first of all, no, it's not "so cold," and secondly, snow is beautiful!

She gets her Kilwin's favorite -- a chocolate caramel apple.

I get a coffee. Which unfortunately is made with sour milk. There's hot weather for you! Grocery deliveries are in danger of giving you sour milk! We walk back to the store. I get a fresh cup. I relent and let her have an ice cream. Vacations are not times to limit stuff like that. Besides, the girl was active on the beach!

At the hotel, we rest, we read. She does not want the pool and I dont blame her. It's a draw for mostly older people cooling off in what looks like a bathtub. We're happy to put off swimming until tomorrow.

But I do think we should explore some more. 

("waiting for elevator" photo) 

We had walked south along Ocean Drive. Why not walk north?

And if you ever doubted that Vero Beach has great wealth (the condo complex next to us looks rather ordinary, for example), you need only look into the private mansions that line the coast to the north here. They are... extravagant. And way too close to the ocean in my opinion.

 

 

 

Eventually the sidewalk turns into a narrow boardwalk.

It's a great place to walk and there are any number of seniors here now, in the cooler hours of late afternoon, doing just that. Again Snowdrop reminds me that she does not want to live in a warm place year round. Again I smile at how firmly we stick with our convictions... until at some point we don't. (Though of course, I agree with her -- I can't ever get unused to the changing seasons. Even as the year-round flowers here are very pretty. But who wants to garden year-round?!)

 

Dinner, at the Pomodoro. Walking distance.

We eat outside. And it is truly lovely. And delicious! She orders calamari, of the unfried kind -- loves it! -- followed by her beloved spaghetti. I have seafood pasta. I have had many, many seafood pastas in my days and so I can be fussy. This one was absolutely delicious. 

(Pause for an update from Ed who appears to have lined up a sailing gig for himself. Coming up soon!)

We end with ice cream. We're close to Kilwin's, what can I say...

 

On our walk back I ask her -- which place is really different from home -- southern California or Florida. She doesn't hesitate: Florida. And I agree with her. Florida has a vibe. I wont try to find words for it here. You've probably visited the state. You likely would agree.

Back at the hotel we hit the midpoint of the private Halloween party that preempted our eating dinner there tonight. It. Is. Loud.

I tell Snowdrop -- I'm going down to the lobby to complain. Be right back. 

I want to go with you. 

No, just wait. 

Please!  

She comes down with me.

I've known this to happen sometimes -- a hotel will host a private event and it will be loud. It drives me nuts. That they do it -- well, I can't be surprised. Such money! But I think they owe it to the guests to fess up in advance so that choices can be made. Kimpton Vero Beach didn't fess up. 

Snowdrop was impressed by my calm but firm manner. And by the fact that in response, they discounted the room by 50%. One has to give them points for that, but not enough points. I hate loud noise, especially in a hotel that is not cheap. Ah well, there's always a TripAdvisor review to really rub it in.

Eventually the party does end and we can crack the door and spend one more night listening to the sound of the crashing waves. It really is beautiful, even if my little companion does call it simply "white noise."

with love...