the gray skies of Glasgow

For a family traveling with young kids, the dream is to have restful nights. We did indeed get our dream -- five logs, lost in deep slumber until the late morning.

We wake to drizzle and gray skies. That's more like it! Glasgow weather!

It's a leisurely morning. Laundry time, play time, rest for Sparrow time. Wait, who is that coming in for a grandma visit?!






The breakfast plan for today? Doughnuts from a local doughnut cafe called "Tantrum Doughnuts." I offer to walk over -- I still do enjoy morning city rambles.

(passing "Whole Foods," where good fruits are easy to be had...)






(passing also pubs and cafes that show the age of this beautiful, tough city...)






The doughnut shop:






... where the doughnuts are luxuriously flavorful.






Okay, time for breakfast!






Finally, bathed and ready to set out!






There is no question as to where you should spend your time if you're here with kids on a drizzly day: the Riverside Museum! Oh, you could also poke in at the Kelvingrove Museum (the building below), but I think those in the know are correct: imposing as it is, it's the second choice, after the Riverside!

(the Kelvingrove, with a bit of Glasgow University in the background)





We pass this way on our walk to the riverfront and so it's not surprising that we stop to lunch at Mother India's Cafe, which is just across the road from the Kelvingrove. Mother India is a really good restaurant in Glasgow, serving exquisite Indian food. The Cafe is its offshoot and it's set up to let you sample small plates of some of Mother India's signature dishes.

(Snowdrop, waiting...)






(Sparrow, learning to enjoy naan bread...)





Such good food...

We continue on our walk to the riverfront.





Okay, so what's so special at the Riverside? Well, it's primarily a museum of transportation and it has dozens of trains cars and automobiles that are historically significant and readily accessible to the young visitor.

Too, it has very adorable visuals -- such as video clips and stories and delightful character depictions that'll grab your imaginative chuild's attention.






... not to mention the replicas of streets of yore...






... with wagon cars, trolley cars, subway cars...






Snowdrop is literally bouncing off the floor with excitement and delight.






The local school groups are somewhat more jaded...






She wants a timed released photo. Yes!!!!






As we leave, I notice a replica of the ship that brought me first to America. Yes, built in Scotland!






Shipbuilding: so important to this country's past! There aren't many that were built here that are still on the waters. One source tells me there are only five. One of them is docked by the museum and it is for you to explore. As all museum exhibits in Glasgow -- a visit is free of charge. (Look for the Tall Ship at Riverside...)











(Sparrow is a little impressed, though his attention is equally focused on pulling off his socks and dropping them somewhere along the way. We've lost at least a handful so far on this trip.)






Snowdrop is a more focused on the ship's details.






Hey, he's a ripe seafaring laddie, really he is!






At home again. Rest and play: time spent this way insures great moods all evening long.





In the evening, we have a bit of a hike to dinner -- we've booked a table at the Brel Bar, which is about a 25 minute walk from where we are staying. That's not too bad, except there is this drizzle... Well, that's okay. It's not very cold. And the walk through the park is quite nice.






(We pass the University. Oh, it's graduation weekend! No wonder all the restaurants were getting booked up when I started calling several weeks back!)






Waiting for food at the Brel Bar...












Best moules frites ever!






Those two share a fondue.. Snowdrop just loves her spaghetti...






And afterwards, a pause at our next-door ice cream cafe.






And finally -- home.





Snowdrop may be the only person in all of Glasgow who insists she is not cold, even when the temps fall below 60f (15c).

Ah, Scotland! I so remember now why over the years, I grew to love this place so much!

Sunday in Glasgow

Once again we are reveling in the predictability of simple routines. Leisurely wake up. Unhurried baths. Breakfast at home, baby naps -- on schedule.

It's to be a warmer day today. The cab driver warned us -- if it goes above 20C (68F) in Glasgow, all cabbies are allowed to drive naked (it's that rare an event). I am expecting a lot of au naturel drivers by mid afternoon.

Let's get back to breakfast: I volunteer to go seek out the baked goods. In the past, innkeepers and AirBnB hosts used to leave literature with information for you. These days, they know you have better information on your portable device. My son-in-law is the information chief and he directs me to a bakery just around the corner. Snowdrop begs to come along on my morning adventure and so she becomes my photo prop for this morning walk. (Still a little wet, from her morning bath!)

(standing by the door to our flat)






We pass a grocery store called Whole Foods. No relation. It's in fact a small organics place and I go in just to pick up some tea bags, but end up carrying out additionally fruits and croissants. I blame Snowdrop.






Across the street is the wee bakery called Seb and Mili. Muffins, more croissants and for Snowdrop -- a slice of lemon pound cake.

(waiting for our turn)










You have very sophisticated taste! -- the shop keeper tells her. On the way home, we discuss the meaning of "sophisticated."

Sparrow is down for his morning nap. The four of us sit down to our breakfast. Again, Snowdrop is a girl who does not mind being my photo anchor. In the morning, I usually get at least some push back from any adults when I point a camera their way. Yes, even Ed.






Sparrow's up!






(Are we going out now?)





Our plan for the morning? We walk over to the main shopping drag of Glasgow. It's an unusual way to begin our city rambles, but it's keyed into such important considerations as days of the week and predicted weather patterns.

We are staying in the West End, close to the museums, the university, the parks. To get to the commercial heart, you have to cross the railroad tracks, so to speak. Glasgow has a cool vibe these days, but there are many neighborhoods that are struggling. Still, it is a fascinating city to visit and a great place to navigate on foot.






We eat lunch at a place called Bread Meats Bread. Good sandwiches, pleasant, relaxed atmosphere. And hot. The tables by the window take in the noon sun. Normally, this is a blessing in Scotland. Sun! Warmth! Wonderful! But northern Europe has been engulfed in a heat wave this week. It's in the 70sF (20sC) in Glasgow. So unusual! I think we'll all remember the lunch as being exceptionally and excessively sun drenched.






We do some shopping then. Pick up an item or two for people back home.

(no, not this, even though I do love the association of Scotland with sheep!)






And we pick up some items for the kids. Nothing ambitious, just joining in on what appears to be a very popular Sunday activity.






Later, when Sparrow naps, Snowdrop and her dad hightail it over to the park. The girl has been waiting patiently all morning for this. The two of them find not only a playground, but also an event, or, as she would describe it -- a fair.

 It is, in fact a big deal -- termed MELA in Glasgow, it is a celebration of multiculturalism, with a special focus this year on the Scottish-Asian experience. Here's one quote describing what's at the park, just two blocks from us:

"As well as the performances across the three stages, there will be a huge selection of world food, clothing and goods stalls and entertainment as Glasgow celebrates its rich cultural heritage and all its communities."

What Snowdrop is drawn to are the "fair rides" -- a mini ferris wheel, for example.






Cotton candy. Unicorn balloons. (You know perhaps that the unicorn is the national symbol of Scotland, or, some would say -- of Scottish national pride.)






I visit the "fair" briefly when I step out to the grocery store. (having appointed myself as the mother hen that looks after the essentials. We need some more fruits, some household supplies -- the usual stuff of daily  life). I only meander at MELA for a few minutes, but I find the scene to be really special, in the way that I always find positive statements about multiculturalism to be special.






And in the evening, we're out for dinner again, this time at the Ox and Finch. It's just down the block and it is spectacular! I truly think Glasgow offers some of the best moderately priced eating in the UK.

The Ox and Finch does small plates and that's just so good for us: everyone gets to taste a little of a dish (we order the recommended amount -- seven plates). I think we have unanimity among the adults as to which plate scored top marks: the venison carpaccio with juniper was outstanding. But the kids had their favorites as well. After downing a whole bowl of parmesan pasta, Snowdrop gobbled up all our lightly battered squid. And Sparrow? The wee laddie really loved his crowdie -- that's a Scottish cow's milk curd cheese that came alongside the carpaccio.

Both kids were a delight today. Still, Snowdrop is shouldering a hefty load of activity. Predictably, the lassie is quite tired by the end of the day.






The laddie? Two good naps and he's ready to take on art. Or anything else that we might offer.





Goodnight little ones. Sleep peacefully tonight. Tomorrow is another beautiful day.

a short flight and we're in Glasgow

Good morning from Belfast!

It's our last day here -- or rather our last half day. Still, the weather is holding. Not to be squandered for sure!

But first -- breakfast. Earlier today. No dawdling allowed. Because it is a traveling day, there is a schedule to keep.

I come downstairs for my eggs and smoked salmon and the young family quickly joins me. Hi happy kids!





How good it is to see you so full of cheer!





We strategize: Sparrow needs a morning nap to get him through the rest of the day. His mom will pack up, dad will help. I have a few hours of adventuring with Snowdrop.

Where to? Well, it's Saturday. Should we do the market?

I ask her to list the differences between this famous Belfast market and ours in Madison. We come up with five important distinctions.  First, the Belfast one is covered!





Not sure which markets were under consideration, but St. George's seems to have picked up some fans in the judging department!

Next difference -- this market has lots and lots of fresh fish!





I think Snowdrop is somewhat taken aback by the odors around these stalls. Our fish come from the grocery store: you would never know that they carry with them a distinct smell of seafood.

Then there are the toys. Great place to bring an indulgent grandma... Yes, you may have the Irish ragdoll.






There are bathrooms here too! Very important! No picture needed. Oh, and clothing! Of a certain kind.






The strawberries belong to our markets as well, of course. But theirs are ripe already. I ask the vendor if they just started. Nope! Jealous.






Alright, market explored. Now I get really really ambitious. The girl would love a park. With a playground. I know she enjoyed one across the river yesterday and so I aim in that direction.






It seems like a long walk. It is a long walk. I ask locals about playgrounds that are perhaps less than a 45 minute hike. Families with children: they know their spots. I'm told the nearest one is if I follow that road to the bottom, then turn right, then left, and it will be.

Okay...

I'm in the grittier side of town. Not uninteresting, but surely tougher. There's traffic, there are row houses, there are signs and placards. Still, there is art. In tiles, in posters. Art. Of the region.

(puffins)





(the the Titanic, because, of course, it was manufactured by a Belfast company)






Statement art, too, even if I don't always click onto its meaning...






We find the playground. I imagine kids playing here after school, or on a weekend, like today...






I'm not sure Snowdrop thinks it to be grand, but she is always willing to seek out new possibilities...






And after a handful of minutes, we head home. A long walk, on one side of the river, then the next...






... where we rejoin the stream of pedestrians poking into shops and cafes...






... until we're back in the hotel, just in time to rejoin the others and head out for lunch. At a "Taste of Belfast."


 


It's where Snowdrop discovers that fried shrimp taste the same around the world, and where Sparrow discovers he really likes mashed peas.












And now it's time to head for the airport.

(Waiting for a cab...)






The flight is late, but not so late as to make you nervous about getting to your destination in a timely fashion. Glasgow, our next stop, is just across the sea and the ride is all of thirty minutes. The little prop jet reminds me of ones I took to Islay and indeed, the whole trip to Scotland brings back so many memories, of hikes here, of island days, of highland rambles...





It all begins to feel rather nostalgic. But not for long. We are now making new memories. These will join all the others that I've stored away, of places that I love, and especially when shared with the next generations of traveling companions.



We take a cab to our AirBnb apartment in the West End. The driver is supremely friendly and his sense of humor is so fitting that the ride is like a comedy caper, past known and tried out routines... I do miss being among Scottish people!

Our apartment is huge. You couldn't really tell that from the ad, but it is indeed very very spacious. It's not in any way fancy or pristine, but it's so homey that both kids fall in love with it instantly!






Dinnertime. This one was my choice and it's just around the corner from us.





I ate at the Finnieston exactly on this day four years ago. I loved it then and now here I am, with an ever expanded family in tow. It's not all smooth: as we settle in, Sparrow slips and slides in his high chair. It's hard to make him comfortable. But these are such trivial details. The restaurant is lively and the food is just terrific. If I worried about the choices for Snowdrop, I needn't have: in hearing the selections, she quickly opts for scallops and sun dried tomatoes, then settles back into her drawing. And Sparrow? After his packs of mush, he gets to try slivers of halibut and grouper. Loves it! Absolutely loves it!










But perhaps the finest moment comes around when Snowdrop pulls me out into the little back garden, where people nursed drinks while waiting for a table. She makes friends with a Paisley couple who are obviously missing their own similarly aged children, because they cannot get enough of her and her American stories of travels and life back home. It is a memorable set of minutes!

And now it's way too late to continue. Ice cream cones, open windows, Scottish folk music on the radio. I have missed Scotland!

Good night from Glasgow!