Tuesday, June 25, 2019

a full Glasgow day!

There was so much to this day! So many details that one could spin into wonderful recollections. But of course, time is precious when you travel. The fuller the day, the more bare bones is my story here and that's a shame. But the hope is that a photo and a caption can plant a seed and that the readers may then think about family travel and all that it entails and smile, with perhaps their own recollections of trips they have taken with young ones, or when they themselves were young.

Let's start with the structure of this last full day in Glasgow: the weather is important! We are sliding into an unusually warm spell in northern Europe. Today was still a bit chilly at the outset, but by the end of the afternoon even I shed my sweater.


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My occasional breakfast shopping companion is with me today on my morning run to "Whole Foods" and the bakery. At the grocers, I glance over at this bin of Samphire. I had it for the first time for dinner and thought it then to be thin asparagus. Not so! Samphire grows here in coastal salt marshes and it retains the sea's salty taste.


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We're here for the fruits and croissants!


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(multitasking: reading to one, keeping the other safe...)


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Breakfast.


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After the morning meal, Sparrow takes his morning nap. Snowdrop and I head for the Kelvingrove Art Museum (passing these views onto the university)...


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One set of rooms addresses "being Scottish." What does it even mean? What things do we usually associate with this rugged, northern country? With the islands spilling out to the sea?


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Snowdrop and I come up with five things that have very Scottish associations. Some obvious, some not so much...

And then we focus on the museum's paintings. The rooms of French art have places for kids to engage in the art that they see on the wall. Snowdrop approves.


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(picking favorites)


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(picking a wee souvenir...)


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We join with parents and Sparrow at the Paper Cup for lunch.


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(and a cup cake from a nearby bakery to take to the park)


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At the Botanic Gardens.


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Ah, the flowers of late June...


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(the cupcake at last!)


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foxgloves and views...


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Sparrow in the rose garden...


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In a meadow of English daisies...


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At the playground: fathers and grandfathers...


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Two kids, loving to swing very high!


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In the afternoon, we separate. Dad takes Sparrow back home (nap time!)...


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Mommy, Snowdrop and I go for an afternoon tea at the Willow Tea Rooms. My daughters and I had always loved this sweet custom of afternoon treats, scones and clotted cream. Time to let Snowdrop enjoy it as well...


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She is a chocolate fan. Clotted cream over scones? Eh. Deeply chocolate cake? Heaven.


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You'd think that after this, we wouldn't have room for dinner. Not so. We walk so much that the appetite returns rather quickly. Here's our final Glasgow eating destination:


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The wee one tries a bit of haggis and does not hate it. Such a Scottish lad!


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On the walk home, Snowdrop explains that she is dropping a life in Belfast in favor of Glasgow. Who can blame her -- Scotland is bewitching! She tells us her life's plans here -- luckily they include bringing her whole family.


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So perhaps this isn't our last time here... Who can tell...


Monday, June 24, 2019

the gray skies of Glasgow

For a family traveling with young kids, the dream is to have restful nights. We did indeed get our dream -- five logs, lost in deep slumber until the late morning.

We wake to drizzle and gray skies. That's more like it! Glasgow weather!

It's a leisurely morning. Laundry time, play time, rest for Sparrow time. Wait, who is that coming in for a grandma visit?!


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The breakfast plan for today? Doughnuts from a local doughnut cafe called "Tantrum Doughnuts." I offer to walk over -- I still do enjoy morning city rambles.

(passing "Whole Foods," where good fruits are easy to be had...)


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(passing also pubs and cafes that show the age of this beautiful, tough city...)


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The doughnut shop:


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... where the doughnuts are luxuriously flavorful.


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Okay, time for breakfast!


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Finally, bathed and ready to set out!


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There is no question as to where you should spend your time if you're here with kids on a drizzly day: the Riverside Museum! Oh, you could also poke in at the Kelvingrove Museum (the building below), but I think those in the know are correct: imposing as it is, it's the second choice, after the Riverside!

(the Kelvingrove, with a bit of Glasgow University in the background)


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We pass this way on our walk to the riverfront and so it's not surprising that we stop to lunch at Mother India's Cafe, which is just across the road from the Kelvingrove. Mother India is a really good restaurant in Glasgow, serving exquisite Indian food. The Cafe is its offshoot and it's set up to let you sample small plates of some of Mother India's signature dishes.

(Snowdrop, waiting...)


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(Sparrow, learning to enjoy naan bread...)


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Such good food...

We continue on our walk to the riverfront.


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Okay, so what's so special at the Riverside? Well, it's primarily a museum of transportation and it has dozens of trains cars and automobiles that are historically significant and readily accessible to the young visitor.

Too, it has very adorable visuals -- such as video clips and stories and delightful character depictions that'll grab your imaginative chuild's attention.


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... not to mention the replicas of streets of yore...


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... with wagon cars, trolley cars, subway cars...


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Snowdrop is literally bouncing off the floor with excitement and delight.


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The local school groups are somewhat more jaded...


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She wants a timed released photo. Yes!!!!


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As we leave, I notice a replica of the ship that brought me first to America. Yes, built in Scotland!


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Shipbuilding: so important to this country's past! There aren't many that were built here that are still on the waters. One source tells me there are only five. One of them is docked by the museum and it is for you to explore. As all museum exhibits in Glasgow -- a visit is free of charge. (Look for the Tall Ship at Riverside...)


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(Sparrow is a little impressed, though his attention is equally focused on pulling off his socks and dropping them somewhere along the way. We've lost at least a handful so far on this trip.)


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Snowdrop is a more focused on the ship's details.


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Hey, he's a ripe seafaring laddie, really he is!


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At home again. Rest and play: time spent this way insures great moods all evening long.


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In the evening, we have a bit of a hike to dinner -- we've booked a table at the Brel Bar, which is about a 25 minute walk from where we are staying. That's not too bad, except there is this drizzle... Well, that's okay. It's not very cold. And the walk through the park is quite nice.


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(We pass the University. Oh, it's graduation weekend! No wonder all the restaurants were getting booked up when I started calling several weeks back!)


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Waiting for food at the Brel Bar...


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Best moules frites ever!


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Those two share a fondue.. Snowdrop just loves her spaghetti...


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And afterwards, a pause at our next-door ice cream cafe.


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And finally -- home.


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Snowdrop may be the only person in all of Glasgow who insists she is not cold, even when the temps fall below 60f (15c).

Ah, Scotland! I so remember now why over the years, I grew to love this place so much!


Sunday, June 23, 2019

Sunday in Glasgow

Once again we are reveling in the predictability of simple routines. Leisurely wake up. Unhurried baths. Breakfast at home, baby naps -- on schedule.

It's to be a warmer day today. The cab driver warned us -- if it goes above 20C (68F) in Glasgow, all cabbies are allowed to drive naked (it's that rare an event). I am expecting a lot of au naturel drivers by mid afternoon.

Let's get back to breakfast: I volunteer to go seek out the baked goods. In the past, innkeepers and AirBnB hosts used to leave literature with information for you. These days, they know you have better information on your portable device. My son-in-law is the information chief and he directs me to a bakery just around the corner. Snowdrop begs to come along on my morning adventure and so she becomes my photo prop for this morning walk. (Still a little wet, from her morning bath!)

(standing by the door to our flat)


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We pass a grocery store called Whole Foods. No relation. It's in fact a small organics place and I go in just to pick up some tea bags, but end up carrying out additionally fruits and croissants. I blame Snowdrop.


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Across the street is the wee bakery called Seb and Mili. Muffins, more croissants and for Snowdrop -- a slice of lemon pound cake.

(waiting for our turn)


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You have very sophisticated taste! -- the shop keeper tells her. On the way home, we discuss the meaning of "sophisticated."

Sparrow is down for his morning nap. The four of us sit down to our breakfast. Again, Snowdrop is a girl who does not mind being my photo anchor. In the morning, I usually get at least some push back from any adults when I point a camera their way. Yes, even Ed.


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Sparrow's up!


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(Are we going out now?)


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Our plan for the morning? We walk over to the main shopping drag of Glasgow. It's an unusual way to begin our city rambles, but it's keyed into such important considerations as days of the week and predicted weather patterns.

We are staying in the West End, close to the museums, the university, the parks. To get to the commercial heart, you have to cross the railroad tracks, so to speak. Glasgow has a cool vibe these days, but there are many neighborhoods that are struggling. Still, it is a fascinating city to visit and a great place to navigate on foot.


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We eat lunch at a place called Bread Meats Bread. Good sandwiches, pleasant, relaxed atmosphere. And hot. The tables by the window take in the noon sun. Normally, this is a blessing in Scotland. Sun! Warmth! Wonderful! But northern Europe has been engulfed in a heat wave this week. It's in the 70sF (20sC) in Glasgow. So unusual! I think we'll all remember the lunch as being exceptionally and excessively sun drenched.


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We do some shopping then. Pick up an item or two for people back home.

(no, not this, even though I do love the association of Scotland with sheep!)


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And we pick up some items for the kids. Nothing ambitious, just joining in on what appears to be a very popular Sunday activity.


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Later, when Sparrow naps, Snowdrop and her dad hightail it over to the park. The girl has been waiting patiently all morning for this. The two of them find not only a playground, but also an event, or, as she would describe it -- a fair.

 It is, in fact a big deal -- termed MELA in Glasgow, it is a celebration of multiculturalism, with a special focus this year on the Scottish-Asian experience. Here's one quote describing what's at the park, just two blocks from us:

"As well as the performances across the three stages, there will be a huge selection of world food, clothing and goods stalls and entertainment as Glasgow celebrates its rich cultural heritage and all its communities."

What Snowdrop is drawn to are the "fair rides" -- a mini ferris wheel, for example.


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Cotton candy. Unicorn balloons. (You know perhaps that the unicorn is the national symbol of Scotland, or, some would say -- of Scottish national pride.)


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I visit the "fair" briefly when I step out to the grocery store. (having appointed myself as the mother hen that looks after the essentials. We need some more fruits, some household supplies -- the usual stuff of daily  life). I only meander at MELA for a few minutes, but I find the scene to be really special, in the way that I always find positive statements about multiculturalism to be special.


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And in the evening, we're out for dinner again, this time at the Ox and Finch. It's just down the block and it is spectacular! I truly think Glasgow offers some of the best moderately priced eating in the UK.

The Ox and Finch does small plates and that's just so good for us: everyone gets to taste a little of a dish (we order the recommended amount -- seven plates). I think we have unanimity among the adults as to which plate scored top marks: the venison carpaccio with juniper was outstanding. But the kids had their favorites as well. After downing a whole bowl of parmesan pasta, Snowdrop gobbled up all our lightly battered squid. And Sparrow? The wee laddie really loved his crowdie -- that's a Scottish cow's milk curd cheese that came alongside the carpaccio.

Both kids were a delight today. Still, Snowdrop is shouldering a hefty load of activity. Predictably, the lassie is quite tired by the end of the day.


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The laddie? Two good naps and he's ready to take on art. Or anything else that we might offer.


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Goodnight little ones. Sleep peacefully tonight. Tomorrow is another beautiful day.