I’ve been asked if I long for French food when I am back here. But I am (basically) okay with food in the Midwest.
For example, on my last evening in Paris I ate in a terrific, hidden little gem, L’Ourcine.
fantastic
The chef is one of several dozen up-and-coming chefs in France, much adored and fussed over for his talents. The food is excellent. The price of the menu – 30 Euro. For this I had crabmeat smothered by avocado mouse with diced green apples on top, a grilled filet of St. Pierre over Asian greens and a sublime pots de crème.
wonderful
The next evening I ate in downtown Chicago at an equally wonderful gem, Crofton on Wells. Ms. Crofton has been cooking up a storm here for nine years now, at very decent-to-your pocketbook prices, quite comparable to l'Ourcine. My heirloom tomato gazpacho with rock shrimp rocked with the zest of house-smoked tomatoes, and the scallops, bathed in a red-curry mussel reduction could not be more perfect. I ended with a quad of icecreams: sour cherry, apricot, honey and dark chocolate.
delicious
The wine prices at Crofton were a little silly, but hey, the Midwest isn’t as rich in wine as is France.
And so I have been forced to admit that I can eat well on this side of the ocean.
But the café life. Give me a break.
On Tuesday in Paris, again and again I would come across scenes like this:
crowded
Now granted, the skies were a touch friendlier and temps a few numbers warmer, but that shouldn’t matter. Wisconsinites are hardy types: they freeze their eating spaces year round with overworked air conditioning and underutilized heating systems. So how do you explain today’s café scene on State Street? Walking home, again and again I would come across scenes like this:
empty
And in case you do not buy the fact that the temps were not sufficiently low to drive away café moments, I’ll note that right next to an empty café I saw these two, sitting on a bench, clearly enjoying this very unwarm dish:
hardy
Have I mentioned that I miss the café scene of Paris?
What is to be done about this abysmal cafe situation? It's even worse in NJ where there is no pedestrian traffic. I thought there was some hope in an academic community. And by the way, do you ASK before you photograph random people, such as the ice cream eaters? I am a little timid about that aspect of photography, and you are so good at it.
ReplyDeleteI never ask, though sometimes, if I catch the person's eye, I'll glance inquisitively. Someday I will have my camera ripped from me and bashed against a brick wall but for now, I have developed a technique of shooting many photos in a spacial range and one will include the person who is of particular interest to me. A good zoom is of essence!
ReplyDeleteTo be fair to Madisonians, Friday was not just chilly -- it was also windy and drizzly, so the couple eating ice cream at a cafe table were even hardier than average Madisonian (perhaps they were tourists from Siberia?).
ReplyDeleteOn Sunday evening -- which was much nicer, though still a bit chilly -- I ate on State Street, and we had to wait a few minutes for a sidewalk table.
But I agree -- it's not like Paris.
I really miss the street life too. US streets and neighborhoods are absymal. I love sitting in the parks and great squares (zocalos)in Mexico. Where they are full of life, America's are dead.
ReplyDeletemitch: I know, I know; weather excuses abounded. But in France, they sit at those damn outdoor tables year-round. They heat up the lamps and voila! You have yourself a cafe life.
ReplyDeletea: Don't get me started on the parks! I miss them terribly.