Morzine, both sides now

Yesterday, I spent the better part of the day to the south and west of Morzine: I skied the trails and the run that's part of the larger Morzine-Les Gets ski area. You can ski from Morzine, you can ski from the opposite side (Les Gets). There are so many lifts and runs crisscrossing the mountains that it took me a long time to understand how it all hangs together. So the minute I learned to navigate that side, I changed course: today I went to the east, targeting the slopes between Morzine and Avoriaz.

Why the change? Because I read that the very best Nordic trails are high up toward Avoriaz. 

Yeah, Avoriaz is high up. From Avoriaz, you can take lifts as high as 2466 m (about 8100 ft). The town itself is not at all a coveted destination for me. I've been in these "high up" French places: when I was in college in New York, I chaired the college ski club (I was a newcomer to this country and I didn't realize that first of all, not many in New York wanted to join the newly formed (by me) ski club, and secondly, no one in the entire college wanted to be its president) and we picked (along with our partner university across the street) Val d'Isere for a ski trip. That one sits at over 3000 m. It remains my least favorite ski destination ever. It's really unattractive. All new in the worst way. Yuk. I sort of thought Avoriaz (also new, also high) would be the same.

Nonetheless, just before you get to Avoriaz, you hit some mighty fine Nordic trails. I mean, really superb Nordic trails. 26 kilometers of them.

Now, the French are not really into Nordic skiing. Sophia (part of the couple who owns this hotel) said that they did discover it during the pandemic, because everything else was closed down, but I think they lost it again when the lifts opened this year. Despite the encouragement, I see no more than a handful of skiers on the trails.

What encouragement? Well this: the local tourist office put out a booklet they titled the Guide Nordique. This is where I learn about the groomed trails in the area. In it I read Ski de Fond c'est un sport bon pour la forme! -- a sport that's really good for you! And more. They write (in translation) -- cross-country skiing is very safe; the accident rate is only 1 : 10,000 days of cross country skiing, compared with 1 : 100 days of downhill skiing. For this reason, cross-country skiing is perfect for anyone trying to get their strength back after illness, and moms-to-be. It's a proper work out! Your heart, circulation, breathing, flexibility and chest muscles are all involved. As proof of its effectiveness, the sport is preferred training by cyclists, marathon runners and triathletes. 

Despite the 1 : 100 accident rate, all the people hit the downhill trails and leave the Nordic ones empty. Empty for me!

But first, there's that hearty breakfast again. I'm no fool!

And I notice something that I'd forgotten: it's February 28 -- the day France's mask mandate expires for vaccinated people (except on trains and planes). Immediately, the staff and clients at the hotel stop wearing masks. You can't stay here (if you're an adult) without proof of vaccination, and by removing their masks, the staff demonstrates that they, too, are all vaccinated. I see a few child holdouts in the dining room, but for the most part, masks are gone. Tying masks to vaccines puts those who protest both masks and vaccines in an interesting dilemma. Now that they are maskless, they appear vaccinated. Bummer. They can't win. 

Of course, you have to recognize this as a policy directive. The intention is to get still more people vaccinated for the good of the country. Offering this plum (masks off!) does help. Nonetheless you and I know that Omicron does not particularly avoid the vaccinated. Most just don't get very sick with it. Me, I have to return to the US at the end of the week and I cant do that unless I test negative. (Imagine if we had such requirements for other illnesses: cant come back if you caught or cold! Not until it's gone! Who would ever travel...) So whereas everyone is ditching their mask nearly everywhere, I still put mine on in crowded indoor places. I look like I'm protesting something, only I'm lost as to what: the elimination of the mandate? Well so it goes. [Later, I do see that some shops choose to stay with masking: the pharmacy, the toy shop, the tourist office. You can see where I do business!]

Now, about my skiing: the Morzine-Avoriaz ski area works with a different ski pass. This is nothing short of exasperating. And expensive. Still, best trails are to my east now. I cannot pass them by. I buy a two day lift ticket to get up to Avoriaz.

This time the line for the gondola is long. (That's what I get for going in the morning like everyone else.) A good ten minute wait. But it moves quickly and soon I'm scooting up with all the downhill skiers and their fatty misshapen skis. (Everyone these days skis with rounded fat tips. Soooo much less attractive than my slender Nordic long boards!)

At the top of the gondola lift, everyone moves en masse to the next lift and this one is a chair lift. Me in my Nordics, on a chairlift with all those rounded tips! Kind of funny.

And now I'm pretty high. With beautiful views of mountains that didn't really present themselves to me yesterday. (Am I on the border with Switzerland? I guess I am.)

All the good downhill skiing and the Nordic skiing is about a kilometer or two over the ridge and we all make our way together -- hikers (there are always a handful here that hike), Nordic skiers (well, just me), and downhillers. It's a light descent but it feels funny to be there, moving along with the pack.

And then they veer off toward their runs and lifts and I veer off to the Nordic trails. 

And these are in fact magnificent! With what you come to expect here: the mountain views. And Avoriaz in the distance.

I start off on the red (intermediate) just because it's what's there, but I quickly seek out the blues -- the easier ones. It's not that I can't handle any of them. They are all doable here because up high, the snow is really good. But they're hard! The level of difficulty will tell you how much climbing you're going to be doing. Even the blue ones are a lot of climbing. Here's why: I didn't realize it, but all roads do lead to Rome, aka Avoriaz. All the Nordic trail climb up to it. It's just that the blue ones are more circuitous and take longer to get there. Here's a view toward Avoriaz, as seen from the trail. I'm going to do that much climbing on skis? Whoa! The little booklet didn't say anything about that!

Still, it's far more doable than I would have thought. I guess I got my ski legs back. I did have one nasty fall on a turn and I had to take off my skis to get back up, but it just taught me to skip the classic tracks on turns and stay on the skating part, so that I can actually put on the brakes if I'm going too fast. (How do you stop or even slow down on a classic track? Anyone care to explain that one to me?)

(a superb local skier gets his workout on the blue trail... along with his dog)

 

 

And despite the uphill trend (believe it or not, they make you go down some and the up more, then down a little and up even more, etc.), I make it all the way to Avoriaz.

The ski runs up here are naked snow. We're getting ahead of the tree line. It's all inclines and lifts, and of course the monstrosities (hotels and condos I would guess; not many people actually live in Avoriaz).

(I am not inspired to take close up photos of Avoriaz. Well, I putz with one selfie on a timed release. No Avoriaz building in the background. Deliberately.)

 

 

It's past the noon hour and so I look around for a place to stop and snack. No problem! There are a handful. I pick La Folie Douce (Sweet Madness).

 

 

 

And here's where we are all carded (for the pass sanitaire). No vaccination? No entry, even though the dining is 90% outside.

The people who work here have figured out efficiencies to the max. True, this isn't a lingering crowd. People eat, people want to get back and ski. Still, the amount of people processed through the place is impressive. There is a cafeteria with the most friendly staff ever, helping you pick your cheese and salad (or burger -- they have those!) and blueberry tart baked on the premises! I'm becoming a real fan of these local blueberry tarts! And again I add a glass of wine, even though most people are drinking beer and Aperol Spritzs. And again I cant finish mine. Not because I am opposed to a nice glass of wine, but because wine dehydrates and I am already pretty dehydrated. (Why not carry water? Well, us women cant just pee off the trail. So I watch my intake during the day.)

The meal experience is very different than yesterday's, but still very, very pleasant. I am surrounded mostly by the French language and I like listening in on conversations. People are in great moods and did I mention the sunshine?! Oh, the sunshine! (I sit at a communal table facing the sun...)

It's amazing to me that for weeks the talk was all about rain and clouds and wet snow and clouds and here we are with none of it. Such incredible luck!

But it's a problem too. After I go in to "wash my hands" and come out again, my eyes are watering over. I cannot see. It is that bright up here!

Lucky me, they have a little gift area inside and the lovely young woman there sells strong sunglasses for idiots like me who do not bring their own. (I actually dont own a pair that's strong enough for this sun.) It's a good thing that I can put away my regular glasses for long distance eye sight. The sunglasses really save me for the rest of the day.

After lunch, I'm thinking the return will be easy. Mostly downhill now, no?

No. Tricky people! The return trail goes down a lot, up a little, down a lot, up a little. You are always working here!

But with such wonderful views to coax you along!

(Morzine down below...)

(the trail: up and down, and down and up, and down again...)

(chairlifts, mountains...)

(Risk of avalanche up here today? 2/5. It's never 0.)

(note the crazy guy up in the air...)

When I reach the chair lift that is to take me down to the gondola, the attendant encourages me to ski down using the hiker's path. I challenge that, reminding him I am on cross country skis that do not have great stopping power. And that path has to be downhill. Still, he encourages me to try it. Now how can you try something without the alternative of changing your mind? I don't want to risk it, especially since we are now at the level of icy snow. I opt for the chair. And so I make things a bit complicated for him because he has to explain to me that I have to carry my skis on a chair lift going down. On my lap. Poles too. Still, everyone is patient, everyone is kind. I'm the only skier on the chair lift, but down I go, and looking over my shoulder at the path, I am SO glad I chose this option.

As you move from the chairlift to the gondola (remember, I still have to take that back to town, but at this afternoon hour, it's pretty empty), you pass a little outdoor cafe. And you see a handful of people enjoying a break, faces toward the sun. And you think to yourself -- hey! I want to do that!

(cappucino, with a view and with plenty of sunshine)

In Morzine again I have a few tasks: return the downhill skis so that I wont be tempted to do that again. I'll stay with the Nordic with the lower accident rate! 

(Morzine, downtown...)

 

And I chat to Sophia a little. I learn that her husband (grandson of the original owners of Le Samoyede) is also the chef here. Well now, I see that they have really put this place on the map with his cooking skills. Even the Michelin people are looking up with admiration. I do ask her if she ever skis. Of course she doesn't. Way too busy until the end of the season. Maybe then, if there's still snow up there.

And I think to myself -- if you inherit a hotel from your parents, do you then look for a spouse who agrees to manage the hotel? They work as a marvelous team! They've improved this place, added great food and reached for a whole new client base. It's theirs together now. May they always remain in love with their idea. And each other.

(my room at their hotel, with afternoon sunshine)

One more little thing: I go out to pick up some sun screen. I know this will absolutely bring me bad luck and there will therefore be no more sun, but still, I need it just in case.

And then there's dinner. Did I miscount, or did they just add a sixth course? All excellent. Today, I'll show off the amuse bouche no.1 and the appetizer.

Amazingly beautiful day. But I should have gotten the sun screen earlier. My face looks like a tomato. Of the pink variety.

Good night from the beautiful little town of Morzine, wishing an end to the tragic attack on the people of Ukraine. 

With love...