sunshine in Provence

You forget that when in Nice you are actually in Provence. (Nice is part of the Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur region of France.) I suppose a light bulb flashes if you enter souvenir shops where lavender goods abound. But honestly, Nice is more about the sea than about lavender fields. Palm trees rather than olive groves and Mediterranean forests. It would be a shame to be here and not venture a little deeper into the hills that gently (and not so gently!) descend into the city. We need to explore a little off coast. In picking a hill town to visit, I was of course going to pay attention to distance and ease of transportation. I thought Eze, with its Medieval fortifications and structures might fit the bill: just a 15 minute train ride toward Monaco and Italy, it's easy to get to. At least to get to the station of Eze. From there you have to either drive or hike up the hill to the old town. Good enough!

And it is one beautiful sunny day again. Perfect for an outing.

Breakfast first.

 

A digestive pause, and then we walk to the train station. 

 (it gives me great joy to see so many very old people with dogs here)

 

 (do note the attire of the woman above and of Snowdrop below)

 

I tell her to consider taking a jacket. If it's to be a high of 61F/16C in Eze, the climb up may be breezy. She listens indulgently, skips the long pants, forgoes the jacket. Me, I take mine. And let me say straight away that she was right and I was so wrong. I wore my jacket only the last 5 minutes of our day-long trip. In the remaining hours, I sweated, even though we both had short sleeves.

 

Here's the thing about Eze: I'd never been there. A bit surprising, considering how much time I've spent on the coast here, but really, there are so many interesting towns that beg for a visit that somehow I passed this one by. In my pretrip research though, it seemed perfect. Even the walk up to the cliff-top village from the train station (estimated to take 1 hour) seemed like a clever idea for an outing with an 11 year old. (I forgot about the part where she is accompanied by an almost 73-year old.)

Trains to Eze are frequent. It's one of the stops en route to the much visited Monaco. I would guess that in the high season the trip can be crowded and unpleasant. But today? Perfection itself. Few people, gorgeous weather.

(oh, but would my farmette bougainvillea grow this dense with flowers!)

 

 

You dont have to do the one hour trek up to the old village. A bus can zip you up in no time,  and indeed, very few people climb up. Some take the bus up and do the walk down. An entirely reasonable approach. But I'd read somewhere online the account of a woman with reasonably young kids doing the hike. I think now that she was showing off. 

Looking up, I knew this would be a challenge. And it was.

The views were splendid! The vegetation -- lovely. But the climb up was steep, rocky and never-ending. 

(not even a tenth of the way up yet...)

The air was still, the sun seemed hot. I'd taken only one small bottle of water which we had to ration for the duration. My walking shoes were much too slick for stones that were worn down to a smooth surface. I didn't have my poles. So, not the best prep for this kind of a hike! The girl cheered me on -- come on, gogs! you can do this! I wistfully thought back to my last mountain hike with her nearly 4 years ago, near Lago d'Orta: she was 7 then and unsure of herself. Now? Well, let's just say she had to pause a bunch to allow me to catch up.

But, ah the satisfaction of reaching the top! Of finding a booth with cold water for sale! Of doing it all on this most beautiful day! 

It was nearly 1 p.m. and we were both hungry. I'd not done a lot of reading about this village, but I knew they had gardens worth visiting and views that would leave you gasping. But first, lunch -- which had us walking around the narrow streets in search of a place to sit down and find comfort in food.

We were lucky: we came across Le Nid d'Aigle (the Eagle's Nest), with its outdoor tables stuck in various available corners of a widening cobbled street. She ordered fish and fries, I ordered a mushroom omelette. I added to it a "mimosa prosecco," just because the occasion called for it.

I dont know how to describe that feeling of pure contentment that comes after an exertion, when you are finally resting, awaiting food, when the sun dapples you with its warmth, when your hiking companion is pleased as punch with our accomplishments. I heard words from her like chill and boss, but I do not think that they do this justice. It was one of those perfect moments. One to remember. 

From there, it was a short stroll (up, of course) to the lookout point and to the Jardins Exotiques. 

And what gardens they were! Cacti, blooming. Succulents, and flowers that seemed artificial in their neon brightness. 

 

 

And the views! Oh, the views! Down toward Cap Ferrat, toward Nice airport and beyond, but more importantly, toward those azure waters of the Mediterranean. Calm, smiling almost, with that self satisfied air of realizing its own beauty.

I no longer buy souvenirs from my trips. What for, when I often dont remember where they came from or what prompted me to buy the item. Carting back more stuff is the last thing I want to do. And yet, here in Eze, I succumbed. It was a small shop with some dishes and ceramics by Gien. I often visit the Gien shop in Paris, just to admire its beautiful china, but I'd never seen the stuff I am now seeing up here in Eze. Including tiny serving plates portraying the colors and flowers of Nice, of Eze. This trip was important. It deserved a few items, including yes, a mini pillow for the couch! (Me and my pillows!)

Madame at the store was ever so helpful as I asked her about one item or another, comparing, considering each beautiful piece. As she packed away my two items, she asked -- are you a professor of French? It was the greatest compliment that I'd ever received for my conversations here! Just for that, I threw in another small pillow! It's worth it, all of it! The travel back with two plates and two pillows. The very exhausting flights to get here. The years of trying to improve my French skills. The hike up, for this moment in the store, where the shop keeper makes me feel like I'd arrived at some point of affirmation. I can do this: climb mountains, travel with my grandchild, speak French. And feel so grateful for it all.

 

I ask Snowdrop if she wants to take the bus down. She doesn't! She wants to hike! Well, my smooth shoes aren't going to make this easy, but then, why go for the easy when a challenge can give you so many rewards!

(almost there!)

We take the train back to Nice.

And dinner tonight? After not liking my choice for last night, I decided to scratch off my idea for tonight. Some reviewers had liked it, but now I see many reviews are not so hot. I'm not wanting another meh dish of food. I turn to the hotel for help and they point me to the Nespo. 

It's more expensive than my own selections, so there's that. Or maybe it's that we both ordered appetizers and main courses so it seemed that way. But I have to say, the hotel was spot on: the menu had what is a Nice favorite: fried zucchini flowers. Of course we both wanted that! Chomped down in a flash!

Then her favorite fish (sea bass), nicely filleted, with baby tomatoes, olives, and shrads of artichoke. We shared broccolini and she added fries to her meal.

All absolutely excellent. Not a drop of food left on either plate.

We don't order desserts at dinnertime. Saves money and time and besides, nothing makes her happier than a walk over to Amorino's for their ice cream.

I've had so much solo travel in my life! Much of it was great, wonderful, memorable. Some -- well, perhaps less so. In thinking back to this day, to this trip actually, I have to admit that not much of it would have been great, wonderful, memorable without the enthusiastic, cheerful presence of Snowdrop. There are some adventures that just beg to be shared. Zucchini flowers that wont be enjoyed alone. Hikes up a mountain that are hard to delight in when no one cares if you make it to the top. It remains the case that I love nearly all the trips I've taken, because loneliness can have its comforting glow as well. You are with yourself. You observe, rather than participate in the tumult around you. This can be quite rewarding. Pleasant even. But today? It was made good by the two of us scrambling up that rocky incline. All those steps, one in front of the other.

with so much love... 

sunshine on the Cote d'Azur

After logging in just about 30 000 steps yesterday (by my watch), Snowdrop slept like a log again. Me, I was a bit off with my sleep total and I put the blame for that entirely on the next Maeve Binchy novel that (Evening Class). It has to be about the tenth of hers that I'm binge reading this winter (into spring!) and I should have known better than to get into her stuff on a trip. Her books are grand from beginning to end, but they especially pull you in when you start nearing the final quarter. You can't put it down and inevitably your light stays on too late. 

But what a morning to wake up to! 

As promised, there's plenty of sunshine and the Mediterranean colors start to really come through. Azure coast indeed!

I finally drag the girl out of bed in time for a 9:30 breakfast. Sumptuous once again! Too many thing she loves. Too many things I want to try!

Where to today? I'm thinking the old town, followed by a climb up Castle Hill. It juts out at the eastern edge of Nice and it isn't much of a climb, considering that the Alps spill right to the north of us here with their awesome peaks, nor does it have a castle at the summit. It's long gone, though you can imagine its significance in the days where watching for the enemy was a priority.

We walk along the water's edge again.

Despite its location, Nice doesn't really get the heat you'd expect from a southern place. The average high on this day here is 60F/15C, and we surpass that today by a little. The next two days we'll go higher, but that will be an aberration. So, a pleasant walk it is indeed. Lucky us!

The old town is never going to be an attraction in itself for a child, even one of Snowdrop's travel stamina and tolerance, but since we have a destination in mind, she is both enthusiastic and patient with me as I pause in an artisanal jam shop, and take a bit longer climbing up stairs. To give us energy, we pick up ice cream on the way. Mine is a raspberry chocolate combo that is just superb. She is all about chocolate. 

Snowdrop is in a chatty mood and I listen to her descriptions of kid dynamics in her school. Interesting how much these things do not change from one generation to the next, though the degree of kid self awareness these days is so much higher. Or maybe it's just her? She most certainly understands growth and changes. Often she reflects back, say to second grade, and she'll say -- "I wasn't very smart about these things then; I'm still sometimes not very smart..." Ha! You're a heck of a lot "smarter about these things" than I was in 5th grade!

The views down to Nice are fabulous.

Oh, the colors of the city! The roofs, the sea, the trees of Provence -- all of it.

At the top, it's not crowded at all. March is a wonderful month for travel here. No one is on spring break except some of the American schools. It's nearly empty. And yet so very beautiful, with the perfumes of spring.

There are two guys there up here with their trained pigeons. Snowdrop begs to get one to perch on her hand. I weigh the possibility of animal mistreatment here -- it's low. Fine, go for it!

And she loves it! The thrill of the day for her!

We walk down. She is jubilant, matching the mood of this beautiful day.

It's after 1, and I start to thin about lunch. She's game for another crepe. We're back at the ice cream shop where they also happen to make fresh crepes.

(men with their ice cream: people who live in the south are always overdressed on a warm spring day...)

 

 

Snowdrop had asked to visit a toy store -- she loves to have a few small characters for her imaginative play in the hotel room and I'd forgotten to brings some for her. We cut across the square to the commercial heart of Nice.

 

 

 

We find a toy store at Nicetoile (a shopping mall, of all things), she picks up some Calico critters. I vote for dogs. Fine with her. She gets a family of small pooches. We pass so many interesting little shops here. I stop at a tea shop and pick up some herbal tea -- strawberry and rhubarb. And everywhere we go, we admire Nice's beautiful dogs.

 

 

 

TIme to head back to the hotel. She tells me she needs a toilette. I tell her -- you'll have to put up with a cafe pause, and me ordering a coffee. She is so agreeable.  And I understand why -- gaga, may I please get an order of french fries? I haven't had any yet.

The waitress smiles as she studies her Calico critters. Where did you get those? So cute!  And then, feeling rather friendly -- would you like a photo of the two of you? Yes! 

 

 

 

We walk home in total contentment. Time for a late afternoon rest. But not for long! Gaga, can we go down to the sea?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And dinner? I pick Italian for tonight, because really, you have to acknowledge the Italian influence here. So it's La Terre del Sud for us, where we speak a mix of French, Italian, and English, all in one sentence.

 We order three dishes: raw artichoke and arugula salad with slivers of Grana (she eats the Grana!), then a grilled sea bream with potatoes for her and a linguini with seafood for me. I loved the raw artichokes. I though her fish was superb. I thought my pasta dish was very meh. Don't order it if you go there!

 

 

 

 

 

With yet a second ice cream cone (for her!) on our walk home, and some fruit once in our room, we call it a day. Oh such a beautiful, sunny day!

with so much love... 

a new day

It's incredible what a good, no, great night's sleep will do to you! Snowdrop woke up refreshed and ready for anything. I woke up relieved and relaxed. Must be the sea air!

As predicted, it is drizzly out there. We could not care less! Everything is grand.

Including breakfast. A buffet with nothing but good choices. Snowdrop loves the madelines...

 

... and the eggs, the croissant, the potato pancakes, the oranges, the hot chocolate. All of it. 

I'm happy with my fruits, yogurts, pain au chocolat, cappuccino. (She stole my eggs -- I would have been happy with those as well.)

In the moments of waiting in between one thing and the next, the girl makes videos on my phone. Titled photo montages of our dogs, put to music. In searching for appropriate songs for each pup, she says with surprise -- gaga, did you know there's a song called Sexy Sadie? Don't I know it! A Beatles classic from 1968. I thought of it the minute I first learned Sadey's name. Of course I avoided that descriptor like anything! Not something you want to flaunt with the grandkids, especially the young ones. I could see Sandpiper telling his classmates that his grandmother had a sexy sadie at her house.

Still, as you listen to the words now, and look at Sadey's poor guilt ridden face, you have to feel a tinge of wistful sadness. This dog who, at a young age, has carried litters of puppies, born not out of love but of a male dog's sex drive, then proceeds to mess up her life, out of a need to protect herself and the life that suddenly became so good... Here, remind yourself of the words...

Sexy Sadie, what have you done?
You made a fool of everyone
You made a fool of everyone
Sexy Sadie, what have you done?

Sexy Sadie, you broke the rules
You laid it down for all to see
You laid it down for all to see
Sexy Sadie, you broke the rules

...

Just a smile would lighten everything
Sexy Sadie, you're the latest of them all

We gave her everything we owned just to sit at her table
Just a smile would lighten everything
Sexy Sadie, she's the latest and the greatest of them all

 

 

In our room again, we go through the possibilities for the day. Snowdrop doesn't mind the rain. She'd like to start with the market. It's a 20 minute stroll from our hotel along this most lovely seaside promenade.

 

 

Nice's market is compact and wonderful. In the summer it draws crowds of tourists -- never a good thing for vendors who prefer locals who actually will buy a kilo of produce rather than a few pieces of fruit to snack on. Now, on a rainy Sunday, you do in fact see more buyers than just window shoppers like us.  What I loved? The produce of course. Fruits, in season now in southern France, Spain and Italy. Flowers. And veggies -- local carrots that make your eyes blaze and everywhere that Nicois specialty -- the zucchini flower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 (oranges and lemons from Menton -- up the coast about 30 miles from Nice)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We actually do buy something -- nougat candies, which she loves, and a basket of strawberries. French. And so very tasty (she ate every last one in the hotel room).

 

 

Since we are so close to the old port, I suggest we walk there to take a look.

 

(past this sign...)

 

 

 

 

(the old port)

 

 

 

 

(only mildly interested in the port -- she prefers the sweeping coastal views; Nice chairs remind me of UW Memorial Union chairs)

 

(she never passes up a merry-go-round ride)

 

(what's blooming in Nice...)

 

 

 

 

And now Snowdrop is ready for her ice cream -- her favorite, found in Paris, but now also in Chicago. We saw the shop yesterday and think we remember where it is. Turns out we're wrong. Google directs us to its old location (now closed), so we are wrong again. Finally, after going around in wet circles, we track it down. What a total delight for her, to eat this for lunch! (I settle for a coffee and and an ice cream macaron...)

 

 

We're kind of in a hurry now. It's 1:15 and I promised her that this bad weather day gives us a perfect opportunity to try out the hotel pool. It's not much of one -- more like an oversized bathtub -- and they limit kid access to morning hours and then from noon to 2. We sprint and make it in time for her to get a good half hour in.

 

 

Walking, sprinting, swimming (her, not me!) -- we're ready for some downtime. She FaceTimes with her friend, I read and write.  But by late afternoon, I feel we should eat something that some might call lunch. True, we had a big breakfast. Brunch-like in quality and quantity. Still, it was seven hours ago. I propose crepes. It seems filling enough to tide us for a couple of hours, yet not so filling that we could not eat a full dinner at 7.

 

I find L'Oiseau -- just 6 minutes from us. A small creperie, run by Corsicans, with Corsican products. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's an important element in Nicois culture. Corsica is an 8 hour ferry ride from Nice (350 kms south-east) and some would say that it properly should be Italian since the island is only 8 miles by water (less than an hour by ferry) from the coast of Sardinia -- a fully Italian territory. But in fact, Corsicans (or Corses in French) have traveled in great numbers to France and especially to Nice over hundreds of years, so their presence here is notable, even as the island itself bears the influence of Italy and the Corsican culture reflects the Italian rather than French temperament and preferences (pizza and gelato everywhere!). Nice has picked up some of that, though here it's hard to say from which side the Italian influence has seeped in, since the Italian border is only 20 miles away by car or train. 

 

(Nutella for her, apple and cinnamon for me. I know, I know -- all sweet. We're on vacation!)

 

 

I'm actually surprised how few tourists we see. Maybe it's the weather and they're all hiding. But even in eateries, we hear French almost exclusively. 

 

 

 

We then walk over to the Russian Orthodox St. Nicholas Cathedral -- the one I wrote about yesterday. Yes, the one that is legally Russian, on Russian territory, a fact that does give you pause. But in fact, the Russian community here remains sizable. We pass a Russian grocery store. We hear Russian as we approach the church. And we are going for its historic and artistic value. I last visited Russia when it was completely under Putin's thumb. St Petersburg was not his though, and neither is this cathedral.

 

 

 

 

 

 

(she meets and greets a cat, while the Russian men engage in an animated conversation, none of which I could hear -- maybe fortunately)

 

A very brief rest follows, and then for the third time today, we set out -- to eat dinner at Chez Davia. The upside? Undoubtedly its food. We start off with beans in a light tempura for her and young artichokes in a clam broth for me (though she snatched one of mine). Finished in a matter of minutes!

 

 

I suggested sole meuniere for her second course -- a pricey dish usually, but almost reasonable here. I settled for the omelette with wild asparagus. Both incredibly good (though she said that in general, she preferred sea bass, which is a heck of a lot less expensive and a more common choice here).

 

The downside? I suppose the restaurant's popularity: one of those places that is packed and everyone sits intimately close to everyone else. 

 

We skipped dessert there. She picked up an ice cream cone on the way home. I have plenty of hotel chocolates to keep me happy!

 

 

Such s full and wonderful day! Such a fun and wonderful travel companion!

 

with so much love...