So where to on this trip? My enthusiastic travel companion Snowdrop voted for Nice (I had stipulated that it had to be in the southern half of the continent).
It's a good choice for us. There is enough in the city to keep things interesting, but because of the sea, and the hills plunging to it, there is a feeling of openness and of nature. Museums and hikes, all in one place. With lots of seafood to please the pescatarian among us.
Nice had once been a real favorite destination for me. Until it wasn't. What changed? Well, I I had liked it enough to bring Ed to it, and though he wasn't saying it with words, I knew he was just "tagging along" rather than diving into it with anything resembling spirit or enthusiasm. And when I returned alone, years later, I was discouraged rather than enthralled -- this isn't a place for a solo trip anymore. I felt lonely. The city suddenly just seemed like a set of blocks, ones that had held magic before, but held nothing of the sort now. Funny how much a place is grand for you if you see it at the right time and under favorable circumstances. I thought I'd never come back.
But along comes my younger traveling companion, with her sparkle and enthusiasm and I'm happy as anything to be returning to Nice once again.
The flights? The first one, to Detroit, is a charm. No TSA lines, no delays. Next, to Paris: good winds, timely arrival. Long walk to the next terminal, but we dont mind. Snowdrop tells me it already feels very French. And no lines at passport control! (If you are traveling to France after April 9th -- the day of the great passport control transformation, watch out!)
A pause for breakfast...

And onto our short flight to Nice. Delayed, but who cares -- it's our last one for the day.
Snowdrop benefits greatly from the fact that I am in my last years of travel. I'm making these trips as comfortable for me as possible. I'm old! She gets the spillover effect. It took ten years to climb my way up in the Air France hierarchy and the irony is that now that I'm here, I have it for life, even as most of the travel is behind me. I think the marketing team got that one right!
She gets the spillover effect in terms of hotels as well. I am almost certain that this is my last trip to Nice. In the past, I always stayed at the small hotels on side streets, in rooms with thin walls and varying degrees of warmth in the winter and coolness on a hot summer day. I always wanted to try one of the grand dames along the Promenade des Anglais -- hotels that have been around for years. The Negresco, my choice for this trip, was opened for business in 1913 (the Romanian behind the establishment named it after himself -- he was Henri Negrescu). It's twice the size of my little Baume in Paris, but that still means it's not one of those huge establishments where you feel completely lost. It is ornate -- something that I find historically interesting and Snowdrop finds beautiful.
You have to know a bit about Nice at the turn of the century (19th to 20th) to understand the city's significance to the travel industry. In 1864, rail service linking Nice with Russia created an opportunity for the nobility of that country to come to Nice -- for the weather, for the beauty of the place. Tsar Nicholas was the first royal to do this trip. He started a trend. By the beginning of the twentieth century, the Russian community here was quite large. Tsar Nicholas II funded the construction of a Russian Orthodox church here (it's on our list of "things to visit"), which was completed in 1912. You know what happened next! In 1917, the Communists seized control of Russia, tsars became a thing of the past. The question remained -- whose was this church anyway? Here's a surprise -- after years of battling it through the legal system, the French court ruled in 2010 that the church properly belonged to the Russian Federation. A slice of land in Nice, belonging to the Russians. Hmmm....
Nice itself has a complicated history, way too bouncy to explain here. But you have to remember that it wasn't always linked to France. At times it was a part of the Dominion of Savoy, in other years -- part of what was to be called Italy. Nice was a strategic port -- everyone wanted a slice of the pie here. It finally was annexed to France in 1860.
And it wasn't only the Russian nobility who vacationed here. The English royalty has been coming over for a lengthy refresh for a long time. No wonder that they named the seaside boulevard La Promenade des Anglais.
So, lots of wealthy northerners coming here to Nice for long periods of time in the sun. It's funny that on past visits, I nearly always had period of rain. My bad luck I suppose. On this trip, too, it's cloudy now and we expect rain -- tomorrow. But not thereafter!
(from hotel room, she looks out at the sea and spins stories about sailors)
(the even better view is toward the center of the city...)
(someone spotted the chocolate lollipops!)
Today is a day of taking it all in, just at the edges. We're tired, it's late. But a short walk is certainly needed! She tugs me toward the beach.

Such small things bring her such great pleasure. Catching waves with her toes, throwing fistfuls of pebbles into the water...

But, Snowdrop is also very hungry. She had a few mini croissants at the Paris airport, nothing more. It's nearing five when we reach the more commercial streets of Nice. And the Square -- Place Massena, in Nice's colors of orange, gold and sage green.


We stroll peering into bakeries, cafes, food shops. She settles on Mama Roma. Slices of pizza reheated in the oven. True, dinner is in two hours, but I can't have her continue on so little food. She must have been starving because she deemed the pizza "really really good!" I had a coffee with the cannoli. Too sweet, but then, aren't most cannoli too sweet?

We walk along this busy street and admire the dogs out for an evening stroll with their Nicois. So many doodles here too!
Well, so many dogs, period. Or, is it that we are both so focused on dogs...
(there's one underneath his chair)

She wants to stop at Petit Bateau -- a clothing store of choice for getting something special for those occasions that call for clothing that go beyond her ratty (according to us) oversized t-shirts. Weird to be shopping for the kids this early in our trip, but on the other hand, it's easier here than in Paris, where the walks from store to hotel are longer and panic sets in as the departure date draws near and I still haven't figured out who'd like what.
We spend a very pleasant hour here. Yes, hour. For a kid that doesn't especially like wearing most clothes grownups choose for her, she sure loves admiring them in this store. Three hours into being in Nice and our shopping for the kids is done!
(walking home at sunset: no Daylight Savings Time here yet!)
Dinner is at the hotel's brasserie (called La Rotonde, because, well, the room is round). The food is good, and importantly -- requires no effort. We keep it simple: she orders the sea bass, I order the scallops with a salad. And ever the hopeful one in the nonalcoholic wine department, I order a glass of their white NA wine, which of course is terribly disappointing. Stick with the NA beer next time.
There are chocolates in our room -- the perfect dessert, though perhaps tonight they disappeared too quickly. We are both so tired, but tired is different than sleepy. I plod on with my stuff, she reads or listens or watches something from her supply of travel material.
Such a good first day! I wish we would not be starting our explorations in the rain tomorrow, though maybe its good to get the wetness out of the way? We'll set the agenda tomorrow. In the meantime, bonne nuit from Nice!
with so much love...













































