a Parisian Friday

We have two full days in Paris. It seemed fine when I booked our trip, it seems a little short now. I feel that the perfect stay would have a day without an agenda, where you follow your nose and your heart and see what comes of it. Though perhaps with Snowdrop, I am more likely to have at least one place in mind for every single day -- a museum or a neighborhood or a park, depending on the weather. 

I had asked her early on if there's a place she'd like to go back to and she voted for the Orangerie with the Monet lilies. Wonderful. We'll aim for that right after breakfast.

 

Breakfast at the Baume. It's not a buffet so it requires a commitment in advance. It takes her a day of hits and misses before she settles on a combination that works for her. On this trip, it's cocoa puffs and croissants and a bit of orange juice. You could argue that I should push for something more nutritious. I would answer  -- hey, she's eating breakfast. I've seen her have days where she'd just as soon skip the whole thing. But at the Baume, you can count on her downing three croissants without a hesitation.

We set out on our walk to the Orangerie. Brisk, because it is a chilly morning. I almost wish we had gone one level up in terms of jacket warmth. A high of 53F/11C today. Slightly cooler tomorrow. But rain-free!

(what's blooming at the Tuileries)

 

 

The lines are surprisingly long, though we have timed tickets, so we can budge the big line. I hadn't realized that a new exhibition went up just two days ago (that's how out of it I was this winter -- I missed the Matisse and I missed this one too). The focus here is on the paintings of Henri Rousseau -- another post-Impressionist! I'm not especially smitten with his art, but it is so incredibly recognizable that I think it's worth taking in with Snowdrop. But first, her favorite -- the Monet lilies.

So beautiful, no matter how many times you see them. 

And the Rousseau exhibit? Very interesting!

(a young artist, with her own impression)

 

 

I think for Snowdrop as well. 

I'd say it was a worthwhile coincidence.

 

When we come out of the Orangerie, the girl wants to head straight for the merry-go-round.

 

 

 

 (same ticket guy, making same cotton candy)

 

 

 

 

 

We're right next to the Tuilerie playground. Not too old! (With ample comments about "pushy boys!") 

 

 

 

And I see that we are not too far from Smith & Son (the bookstore). Perhaps she'd like a new book? 

You have to stick to your guns with her -- Snowdrop always asks for many books, not all of them ones you'd like her to be reading. She tells me that in fifth grade, teachers aren't fussy -- they applaud you if you like to read any books. And really, I can hardly blame her for liking all those graphic novels that she has accumulated. I loved books that were of questionable value when I was her age. Her vocabulary is beyond the beyond, so why fret about the fact that all the conversations come in bubble format?

And now we have one of our typical walks that take us from one place to the next:

Across the Seine again... 

 

 

 

... along the Boulevard St Germain, up rue du Bac. Past coffee shops with dogs...

 

 

 

Past the Cafe Varenne (we're not hungry yet, unfortunately), into the sweet shop (she wants nougats), up to La Grande Epicerie -- the food hall that looks fabulously tempting, especially before a major holiday (Easter). We're not here for the sweet stuff. I need some good fruit for her, and other small things from my shopping list.

She's getting tired now and so am I! When are we ever going to sit down? 

 

 

Not yet. Another quick stop at Petit Bateau, another pause at a jewelry store that always speaks to me when I am here (the goal is just to look!). 

She is hungry and wants lunch. Considering yesterday's miserable excuse for a midday meal, I cant blame her for wanting to go to Les Editeurs -- a place where she loves many foods, not the least of which are the fries.

(waiting, reading)

Just one more stop, I tell her. For coffee at the small cafe that opened up a couple of years ago on the same square as Les Editeurs.

And home. Despite the coffee, I am sleepy as can be.  It's the weather! And the exercise! And the feeling of total relaxation. 

Dinner? I take Snowdrop to the nearby Marcello. I had liked it back in January and I thought after all that fish, she'd be ready for Italian. And she is. Amazing how such a small menu can hit all the right spots for her. Mixed fried seafood to start with, linguini with clams for her main course. She eats the clams ravenously and when the waiter grates lots of cheese for her on the remaining pasta, she is in seventh heaven. 

 

 

And here's a surprise -- just around the corner, we'd found an Amorino ice cream shop. Just a hop's throw from our hotel. 

 

 

 

 

 

It's always impressive to me how many people are out enjoying this spring evening. It's a cool evening and yet, the place is full of people, enjoying the outdoors as if it were July (except that in July, they'd likely not be here, but on their annual grandes vacances. Enjoying themselves then too. I live now in a new-ish housing development back home. Dozens, no, hundreds of homes, apartments, townhouse, and we are lucky to have that one cafe nearby -- Tati's. Last time I went there around lunch time it was empty. And much to the chagrin of my kids, it closes at 3, so they can never visit it after school for a treat, for ice cream. What happened to our communities anyway? Or were we always like this?

 

 

Tomorrow's our last day here. It always feels so odd to think that a few days back we were still in Madison, waiting to take off. And now here we are, dazzled by days of sunshine in Nice, saturated with the joy and sweet comfort of being in our special corner of Paris. 

with so much love...