Yesterday, around a campfire in Nuuksio National Park, I asked our hiking leader Emma about happiness here. Finland was ranked this year as the world's happiest nation. Reasons for it are ample. Emma listed a few: Finnish people are humble. They don't have high expectations and are satisfied with simple things. They trust their government to take care of them and are willing to pay high taxes for the benefits that are provided -- good free education, health care, family care. If you have more money, you pay more. They think that's fair. One new fact that I learned -- traffic tickets are tied to your income level. You can get a whopper out there on the road if you're rich.
The list of things that Finnish people find to be joyful is predictable enough: time in nature, a frequent trip to the sauna, time spent with family and friends, quiet time. They expect to achieve (and they do achieve it!) an excellent work-life balance. But really, the word used to describe them is "content" rather than joyful. In this contentment lies their happiness.
* * *
We meet up for breakfast at 9. This day has a purpose to it. One that was set months and perhaps years ago. The dad is to take the three kids to Moomin World.
A word about that: my son-in-law has a long standing fondness for the Moomin books, written by the Finnish author Tove Jansson between the years 1945 and 1970. [If you haven't read them -- they're about the magical adventures of an eccentric family of trolls. And yes, they do have some adventures, but the books also have a philosophical quality to them, as they dive into themes of friendship, community, nature. These kids and especially Snowdrop, have loved them all.] I should note that Jansson was a Helsinki born Finnish author, but she wrote the books in Swedish because she belonged to the Swedish speaking group of Finns. This was news to me -- I learned yesterday that English is not the second language here. Swedish is. Only about 5% of Finnish people have Swedish as their first language, but Swedish is mandatory in schools. Of course, you know how that goes -- at the end of the day, school learning being what it is, only about 20% of the people are at a conversational level of Swedish. By comparison, more than 90% of the people here can speak English, even though it is not mandatory in schools. Practicality rules. In Finland, you must pick an additional language in school and 99% of the students pick English.
So, my son-in-law rented a car and the plan is for him to drive the four of them, kids and dad, to Moomin World -- a theme park that picks up on the stories of Jansson. It's a two hour drive, so they will be gone for the day.
But first, breakfast with the sweet threesome and their parents.
(all my favorites here... one last breakfast for me!)
(Off they go!)
* * *
Perhaps I've said this before -- my older daughter is a reluctant traveler. This travel aversion, of course, has been exacerbated by the growth in her family. With three kids, one of them still quite young, even the most happy camper is going to feel like a day far away is going to present challenges. To get her to go along on this very complicated trip, where she hops from Krakow, to Warsaw, to an isolated island in Estonia, and finally to Helsinki, her husband offered her freedom in Helsinki, where she gets to do what pleases her, with me to keep her company if she wants it, while he hassles with the kids and their Moomin fantasies. After ten days of making sure every kid is bathed, dressed, fed, packed and unpacked, kept quiet, treated fairly by the others, rested at night, respectful during the day, she was ready for a day to herself!
And so here we are, just my girl and me, in Helsinki.
My daughter needed some small items at the drugstore and bookstore, I wanted to check out Finish berry creams and Finnish products in general, and I wanted to experience the classic Helsinki coffee shop. We both wanted some downtime.
Off we go then, on our lovely walk together.
We start with a tourist item -- a visit to the Helsinki Cathedral. Built in the early 19th century, in the days of Russian presence here, it was dedicated to Emperor Nicholas I. (It's often called St. Nicholas's Church.)
My daughter likes seeing interesting church interiors far more than I do, but this one incensed her. You had to pay, quite a bit actually, to go in. "But if you just want to say a prayer?" -- she asks. Then you go down to the side entrance and go into the crypt.
We did that, if only to see what the faithful are left with. It was, in fact, a crypt.
We leave.
And now we head to the main commercial artery in downtown Helsinki. At the Finnish bookstore there, she finds plenty of English language books, but of a certain time. Romance, Sci Fi. A couple of bestsellers she'd already read (she is such a speed reader that it's frightening! I get very jealous at how many books she can put away in just one day).
We leave.
Next stop -- the department store Stockmann. Here, I again have to put in a plug for the staff at the Kamp Hotel: truly, they get to know you despite the hotel's size. And their helpfulness is just plain awesome. They directed me to most everything today.
At Stockmann's I can look at Finnish creams and lotions. And wouldn't you, too, be tempted by stuff that has the essence of birch, or cloudberry in it?
At the store, too, the staff was helpful and when I needed sunscreen for the summer, they pulled me away from the big commercial stuff and pointed me to small, often organic producers. Creams with ingredients you can recognize! Just like in food! We spent quite a bit of time here. So much to look at, sniff out, admire.
And then we leave..
It is nearly lunchtime and I have the idea we should go to a classic Helsinki coffee shop. For this, I made the mistake of searching out places on the internet. Should have asked instead.
This particular stop is important to her -- she loves a good, reasonably light lunch. And to me as well -- I eat lightly too, but I am especially curious about Finnish pastry. There appear to be no pastry shops in Helsinki. No bakeries either. I was told the Finnish people are serious coffee drinkers and will order pastry along with a coffee in a cafe. I'd read about a place called Johan & Nystrom. It's supposed to have a classic Helsinki vibe.
A short walk later we find it and go inside. I dont see any interesting or uninteresting pastries, but there are definitely sandwiches. My daughter asks about the prosciutto one in the display case.
"We dont have any at the moment. We only have an avocado on toast."
I look again. They have avocado on toast. They have prosciutto and cheese. They have some other one as well. Are these other ones stale? Did I misunderstand? I ask again: is it possible just to buy the prosciutto and cheese sandwich? Same answer: "We don't have any at the moment" she tells us from behind this same glass case.
At that point we leave.
I suggest we go back to my first night's Kappeli. With outdoor tables and goat cheese salads, it is quite perfect.
And now we search out the (recommended by the hotel) Finnish product gift shop -- Taito.
And it is beautiful! The birch wood products, the ceramics, all of it! I pick out a simple tray for the coffee table, my daughter finds something as well.
(my purchases)
And we leave.
What next? Well, we're still hankering for a coffee shop experience. We try one place. Just coffee, no place to sit.
We leave.
We try another -- it's really more about self-service sandwiches.
We leave.
Finally, up the street of our hotel, there appears to be a cafe with lovely outdoor tables. Inside, you can pick up coffee and pastries. Yay!
It's a wonderful exhale for us.
We stay.
From there, it's two steps to the second recommended bookstore. It has the name "Akateeminen," which is daunting. (It means Academic.)
We needn't have worried. It is a fabulous bookstore! And huge. And full of English titles. Even I find stuff that tempts me no end, and I'm not looking!
I also find a few book tote bags for sale. Truly, I do not understand this one!
After a while, I leave. Even if I wanted actual reading material, I really should just add it to my kindle. I'm not collecting books anymore and the kindle does allow me to read at night easily. Still, all those beautiful, beautiful books...
At the hotel, I approach the front desk with trepidation. I have an impossible request this time. I start in on it: I have this painting, poorly wrapped. I've been carrying it in my bag. I need the bag now for extra purchases (creams, a book, two trays, chocolates... etc). Could you tell me where I could take my painting so that I can wrap it well and perhaps make a little carrying handle for it? Is there a place like that nearby?
Their response -- we'll do it for you!
And they do it and it's perfect. I am deeply content.
* * *
The four Moomin fans return just in time for dinner.
(someone here was very persuasive in the souvenir department! Does it count as a separate carry-on? Does it need a seat assignment on the flight tomorrow?)
I'd booked a meal at Lappi -- a traditional restaurant serving foods that one might find in Lapland. Think salmon tartarte, reindeer -- both in dried meat form, sausage form, and roasted. (Think also baked smoked salmon for the non-meat-eaters.) Oh, and Lappish flat bread -- easily seen in the photo below!
The kids are in fabulous moods. Lovely for the entirety. Is it that we're winding down? I think more that they have adapted to the changing venues, demands, the new foods, the active days that they woke to each morning. Good travel takes practice. They've had a lot of it on this trip!
Dessert? Rhubarb crumble, pancakes for those who love pancakes, and Lejpajuusto cheese with cloud-berries (familiar from yesterday's lunch).
(too busy writing a postcard to cousins to focus on dessert)
And because it is our last meal together in Europe, we take the two group photos: one I do of them (and yes, it's a bit strange to be sitting below a big picture of these beautiful animals, munching on their meat, but on the other hand, I'm told that reindeer meat is tasty and surely the people of Lapland appreciate having it, especially in the dead of winter.
One last photo, of all of us!
I can't believe this long desired, long planned, long anticipated trip is officially at an end!
We walk back to our hotels, say our good byes (except for Snowdrop who comes back to my room) and thank yous, to everyone for everything. I finish packing and try hard to fall asleep. For a few hours anyway.
With so much love!!!!!
