Chamonix

In thinking about this trip, I'd tried not to make it too packed, because none of us likes to be rushed on a vacation, but, too, in the 4.5 days we are here, I thought there were some things we really, really should do: the trip up the highest cable car (done). The swim in the outdoor pool (done). The ski lesson (done, at least the first one). The cog rail trip up to the mouth of the glacier (done, sort of). A dog sledding expedition (done). The success of much of this was going to be weather dependent. You cannot see the Mont Blanc summit from the Aiguille peak on a cloudy day. You can't ski if it's raining. Not much point in going up to see the glacier if the weather is lousy. And the owner of the huskies will take you out, but only if there's good snow and the weather isn't otherwise in the way of a safe run.

I didn't want to worry about the weather too much, because it is, of course, completely out of my hands. You have to accept what the mountains will offer you. And now, toward the tail end of our stay here, I have to say, we've been enormously lucky, because so far, the weather has been totally on our side. Sun when we need it, snow when it's important. 

Nonetheless, a trip with so much going on within its brief set of days is going to have some hits and, too, some misses.  All I can say is that our misses so far haven't been too bad. Knock on wood! 

 

Let me roll back to the start of the day. We had to get up a little earlier than anyone would want because we had a 10 a.m. train to catch. (And still, we were nearly the last diners for the morning service! The hotel serves breakfast from 6 until 10, which tells you something about the people who stay here: there aren't very many couch potatoes!)

(breakfast)

(walk to train station)

We're taking the little red train up the mountain to the mouth of the glacier. I did this last year and it was fascinating! The ride up, the gondola scoot to the stairs that you then had to climb down to the icy mouth of the huge glacier. 

(train ride up)

But as we got out of the train, I saw that the gondola was closed. Asking "why?" got me nowhere. I was told the whole walk down to the glacier was closed. To reopen at the end of February. So yes, you could see the glacier from up high, but forget the up close and personal.

So now we have an hour and a half to kill before our lunch up at the old refuge. What to do? Someone proposes a snowshoe hike into the forest. They have snowshoes for your use. Free even.

But they're lousy snowshoes. They dont stay on. A Frenchman watched me struggle with the clasps and tried to help, but he and I both concluded that the shoes were pretty worthless.

So instead, we went to the hut that had the display about the glacier and the creatures that inhabit it...

And then we ditched the snowshoes and took a trail into the forest without them. And it was fine.

Lunch at the Montenverse Refuge last year had been a highlight for me. This year? It was fine...

But they were pokey pokey and as a result we missed our train back down. Not a tragedy under normal circumstances -- the trains run every half hour -- but we had an appointment at the hotel with a staff guy who was going to drive us to our much anticipated afternoon activity: dog sledding. 

(waiting for the next train)

 

(here it comes...)

(ride down to Chamonix...)

Luckily our hotel is super helpful in all ways. I called, they picked us up at the station, and half an hour later we were in la Tour -- a tad north of Chamonix and the place where a Chamonix local and his wife run their dog sledding operation. A second generation of huskie sledders. Basically they own and train their dogs and offer sled rides to those lucky enough to book three months in advance, weather permitting. 

Last year, I had wanted to try it, but the hotel staff told me that I was way too late in my request,  so this year I booked early. For two. Before my daughter decided to join us.

So we had only two seats available (they have one sled with two seats and one with one seat, but that second one was already booked by someone else) and I decided that my daughter would get an even bigger thrill out of it than I would, so I let her take my place.

 

Getting ready...

And they're off!!

(I walk over to a bar nearby and warm up with a cup of tea: it's cold out there!)

The husky dog has been on Snowdrop's mind ever since I first mentioned the possibility of this adventure. She now officially isn't JUST a cat person. She also loves some dogs, and especially huskies, and could they please get one, please please please. The parents have the presence of mind to say no.

So on balance, very lucky. Tomorrow the deep freeze will move on and we are to get rain. It's okay. Snowdrop does have another ski lesson and I wish very much she would have the opportunity to solidify all that she has learned thus far, but at least we will have sampled the best of Chamonix, the mountains, French Savoyard culture. You cannot want it all. You just cannot.

We eat dinner at Atmosphere. Over the river, with lovely food. A bit of French, a bit of Savoyard. With a dessert to die for, from my perspective: Alpine blueberries in their sauce, bits of meringue, a touch of ice cream, a touch of whipped cream.

We return to our hotel home. Man oh man, we are tired. Sleep. We need to get to bed early tonight! 

with love...

Chamonix

The very nice man at the hotel lights the fire in the living room space for us. I have the rest of my third cappuccino. A fresh coat of snow covered the streets overnight. We are are staying put this morning.

Many would think that this is a waste of time and place. There is so much to do here! So much to discover! Hikes. Trails. Cable cars whizzing you up to summits. Remote villages with old chalets. Maybe a spotting of the Alpine chamois. And yet, here we are.

If you needed to hear our excuse it would be this: the girl had her famous 24 hour travel bug -- this very healthy child who is never sick at home, often gets zapped with something -- strong but quick -- when we travel. What she needs then is a 24 hour grace period where she just rests. So we're at the tail end of that rest. But, too, if you were to ask my daughter, for example, what her idea of a perfect getaway would be, one that is Alpine focused, she'd say instantly -- a cozy space to do some reading. We are thus checking off several necessities with our time by the fire.

Did I tell you? It's snowing outside. Had we this kind of weather throughout, we would have never seen the Mont Blanc summit. Or any summit. Here's the view from our window this morning (and it only gets cloudier as the day progresses): 

Yes, we had a breakfast. The girl's appetite is returning. Mine never left. 

But, the morning definitely belongs to the fireplace. Books. A tablet. And the sound of French voices in the background.

 

 

At 11:45 the three of us set out for Casa Valerio for lunch. 

 

 

That is a touch early, but we have an afternoon schedule to keep. I've not tried this place yet, but it really is exactly what we need -- the girl loves pizza and right now our focus is on charging her appetite to its full potential. (We find the place to be lovely! Overlooking the rushing River Arve.)

At 1:15, I take her down to the lobby, where someone is waiting to give us a lift to the slopes.

(All ready! The ski gear is rented, but the goggles are her own. A Christmas present from gogs!)

 

Snowdrop has never tried downhill skiing (and her cross country experience too has been rather thin). I had never thought about exposing her to this sport. I mean, I'm not one to get her hooked on something that I do regard as a bit dangerous and certainly expensive. I speak from a lifetime of flirting with skiing -- intensely at the beginning. So in planning an Alpine adventure I never once considered putting her on skis.

But both the girl and her mom pushed back. Isn't this a great opportunity to see if she would like it?

In fact, I don't think of Chamonix as being a novice skier's paradise. It's not a place where you ski in and out, from your chalet door up the lift and back again. You have to make an effort to get to a ski hill. Not a great effort, but still, an effort. Nonetheless, I corresponded with my wonderful hotel staff and they assured me that a lesson or two could be booked, skis would be delivered for her, and we could have a wonderful few hours of skiing.

I decided I would pass on joining her in this. I don't really want to get excited by this sport again. I don't want to twist my knee, strain my back, spend the money on me doing something that frankly is no longer good for me. I say all this to Thomas, her very French, very sage, very knowledgeable ski instructor. He laughs: my grandma stopped when she was 81, and it was only because of the danger of others bumping into her! Well yes, my feelings exactly, even if I'm not yet 81. The sport is fast now -- the boards are way speedier than they were some decades ago and there are too many inexperienced skiers flying down on them. Still, I have to say, watching Snowdrop move down a gentle slope tempts me. At least theoretically.

(walking toward the rope lift)

 (first downhill run)

 

 

 

 

 

I don't stay for the whole lesson. The walk back to the hotel isn't too bad.

I wait for her by the hotel fireplace.

So... did she like it? On balance, yes, very much, even if there was an accident somewhere in the middle, on the t-bar, that gave her a fat lip. I hear there was blood, but no teeth were knocked out! She almost gave up then, but somehow found the will to continue til the end.

I walk back to the ski area and meet Snowdrop and Thomas in the parking lot. He's happy to drive us home.

In the car, we chat a little about his experience as a ski instructor. He's been at it since he was 17, so for a quarter of a century now. He's seen it all! Some people, they just haven't the body balance and it is so hard for them to learn. But Snowdrop is quite sportive. Ah, the biggest compliments, coming from a French person -- that your child is sage and sportif. In fact, he suggests something more for her second lesson on Wednesday: that we go up at Les Houches, to the ski area there. Oh, what a fabulous idea! I had watched children learn up there. They have a carpet for the super beginners, though Thomas assured her that she could also do the chairlift with him. All we need is good weather which, unfortunately does not look promising for that day as of right now. We can cross our fingers, but also understand that weather in the mountains is unpredictable and we have been lucky thus far -- we've had a good run of it all the days we've been here.

Dinner: we eat at the Panier de 4 Saison. It's a small place, one that draws people who want a bit of a pause in the traditional Savoyard fare. Even though, as my daughter will attest, here, too, you will find something with melted cheese!

We hadn't done a threesome selfie yet. There is a shelf... up goes the camera. Count to ten. Click!

with love...

Chamonix

We're getting better at sleep! Still not at the optimal levels but at least two out of three are now sleeping through the night.

Sunday in Chamonix. Notable for us for any number of reasons. But first, I have to say, I think Snowdrop has a bit of a bug. She hasn't her usual spunk and appetite and though she is in fine spirits, I can see that this will be the day to go slow.

I look outside. A week ago, I read that this day would be cloudy. Then, closer to our arrival, I see that there may be sunshine in the morning. As of yesterday, we're back to hearing about clouds with the possibility of snow. So which is it? I look outside our window at the Aiguille du Midi peak (it's the one to the left).

 

 

Lookin' pretty good! The weather in the mountains is so unpredictable! 

We meet up with my daughter for breakfast. The girl just wants fruits today. A nibble here, a nibble there.

 

 

 

 So, there's definitely a need to rest up some, but not right away. For this morning, I bought tickets for the cable car ride up to Aiguille du Midi. This is a big deal: you can reach the very summit, which stands at 3842m (or 12 605 ft) high. The cable car ride is thus the highest in the world. (You have to bundle up for this -- it's cold up there!)

This unique cable car opened 60 years ago and I had actually done this trip now nearly 50 years ago. I remember feeling really dizzy because of the altitude, though perhaps this is all in my memory box and the reality played out in a more gentle fashion. Nevertheless, it is no secret that I hate heights and I would likely not care for the newest attraction up there -- a step "into the void!" It's a glassed-in from all sides box where you can stand and look up, down and all around. Since it's enclosed, I'd probably be okay in it, but honestly, the whole trip is just enough not my favorite that I send my daughter and granddaughter up without me. Have fun, girls!

(Later, my daughter texts me a photo from The Void!)

(From this summit, you have the best possible view of Mont Blanc.)

So what do I do with my morning? Well, there's a gentler cable car ride up another mountain (called Brevent), one that faces the Mont Blanc range. Mont Blanc itself is now beginning to hide under a cloud, but still, the views promise to be good and importantly, the telepherique (cable car) is a five minute walk from our hotel. Easy stuff.

To get to the Brevent summit, you take the first smaller cable car to a level of 2000m, then a second larger one to the summit at 2525m (8284 ft). Funny that I can handle that without issue! The body and mind are a strange mix of physical prowess and mental manipulation.

People mostly come up to Mont Brevant to ski, so I am in a cable car with many boards and clunky boots. The larger car has a local operator who makes sure you survive the ride (just kidding) and who opens and closes the door of the car. When we file out, he wishes us a good day and a great ski down and the crowd of some 30 skiers and me respond with a loud "merci!"  And then they disappear round the bend.

And  the views? Pretty good, though I'm sure my girls had a better up close and personal with Mont Blanc itself. Here are my contributions:

(looking at the sharp Aiguille peak: that's where my girls are right now!)

(Mont Blanc is the seemingly gentle one -- with the light cloud cover over it)

(Mont Blanc, Aiguille du Midi, and... me)

Mommy and daughter are back in the early afternoon. Now is the time for us to go to lunch. 

Since it's a Sunday, I booked this meal as well -- at Josephine, which is a really busy, really typical place that you could find here or on the streets of any French city.

From here it's a short walk to a ski store. To look. To measure. To rent. Not for me. Not for my daughter.

In the afternoon, we all rest a bit. I had booked one back kneading session for me and one for my daughter and today it's my turn, so as they rest, I close my eyes and allow expert hands to work out all the knots that accumulate so easily in your back, your shoulders, your neck.

And pretty quickly it's time to go to dinner. Except that no one is hungry and the girl is really fighting a bug, so we cancel our restaurant reservation and eat a few odds and ends from the kitchen downstairs in our room upstairs.

After "dinner" we are done! Snowdrop really needs to rest up! Let's hope that tomorrow she'll have totally bounced back. I have to think though that even in these short few days, the girl has seen and digested a lot of mountain culture. And that's a good thing!

with love...