Chamonix

In thinking about this trip, I'd tried not to make it too packed, because none of us likes to be rushed on a vacation, but, too, in the 4.5 days we are here, I thought there were some things we really, really should do: the trip up the highest cable car (done). The swim in the outdoor pool (done). The ski lesson (done, at least the first one). The cog rail trip up to the mouth of the glacier (done, sort of). A dog sledding expedition (done). The success of much of this was going to be weather dependent. You cannot see the Mont Blanc summit from the Aiguille peak on a cloudy day. You can't ski if it's raining. Not much point in going up to see the glacier if the weather is lousy. And the owner of the huskies will take you out, but only if there's good snow and the weather isn't otherwise in the way of a safe run.

I didn't want to worry about the weather too much, because it is, of course, completely out of my hands. You have to accept what the mountains will offer you. And now, toward the tail end of our stay here, I have to say, we've been enormously lucky, because so far, the weather has been totally on our side. Sun when we need it, snow when it's important. 

Nonetheless, a trip with so much going on within its brief set of days is going to have some hits and, too, some misses.  All I can say is that our misses so far haven't been too bad. Knock on wood! 

 

Let me roll back to the start of the day. We had to get up a little earlier than anyone would want because we had a 10 a.m. train to catch. (And still, we were nearly the last diners for the morning service! The hotel serves breakfast from 6 until 10, which tells you something about the people who stay here: there aren't very many couch potatoes!)

(breakfast)

(walk to train station)

We're taking the little red train up the mountain to the mouth of the glacier. I did this last year and it was fascinating! The ride up, the gondola scoot to the stairs that you then had to climb down to the icy mouth of the huge glacier. 

(train ride up)

But as we got out of the train, I saw that the gondola was closed. Asking "why?" got me nowhere. I was told the whole walk down to the glacier was closed. To reopen at the end of February. So yes, you could see the glacier from up high, but forget the up close and personal.

So now we have an hour and a half to kill before our lunch up at the old refuge. What to do? Someone proposes a snowshoe hike into the forest. They have snowshoes for your use. Free even.

But they're lousy snowshoes. They dont stay on. A Frenchman watched me struggle with the clasps and tried to help, but he and I both concluded that the shoes were pretty worthless.

So instead, we went to the hut that had the display about the glacier and the creatures that inhabit it...

And then we ditched the snowshoes and took a trail into the forest without them. And it was fine.

Lunch at the Montenverse Refuge last year had been a highlight for me. This year? It was fine...

But they were pokey pokey and as a result we missed our train back down. Not a tragedy under normal circumstances -- the trains run every half hour -- but we had an appointment at the hotel with a staff guy who was going to drive us to our much anticipated afternoon activity: dog sledding. 

(waiting for the next train)

 

(here it comes...)

(ride down to Chamonix...)

Luckily our hotel is super helpful in all ways. I called, they picked us up at the station, and half an hour later we were in la Tour -- a tad north of Chamonix and the place where a Chamonix local and his wife run their dog sledding operation. A second generation of huskie sledders. Basically they own and train their dogs and offer sled rides to those lucky enough to book three months in advance, weather permitting. 

Last year, I had wanted to try it, but the hotel staff told me that I was way too late in my request,  so this year I booked early. For two. Before my daughter decided to join us.

So we had only two seats available (they have one sled with two seats and one with one seat, but that second one was already booked by someone else) and I decided that my daughter would get an even bigger thrill out of it than I would, so I let her take my place.

 

Getting ready...

And they're off!!

(I walk over to a bar nearby and warm up with a cup of tea: it's cold out there!)

The husky dog has been on Snowdrop's mind ever since I first mentioned the possibility of this adventure. She now officially isn't JUST a cat person. She also loves some dogs, and especially huskies, and could they please get one, please please please. The parents have the presence of mind to say no.

So on balance, very lucky. Tomorrow the deep freeze will move on and we are to get rain. It's okay. Snowdrop does have another ski lesson and I wish very much she would have the opportunity to solidify all that she has learned thus far, but at least we will have sampled the best of Chamonix, the mountains, French Savoyard culture. You cannot want it all. You just cannot.

We eat dinner at Atmosphere. Over the river, with lovely food. A bit of French, a bit of Savoyard. With a dessert to die for, from my perspective: Alpine blueberries in their sauce, bits of meringue, a touch of ice cream, a touch of whipped cream.

We return to our hotel home. Man oh man, we are tired. Sleep. We need to get to bed early tonight! 

with love...