Tuesday, April 08, 2025

Paris

Such a beautiful April morning in Paris! Looking out, you have to be thrilled with a lineup of Parisian dormer windows against a blue sky!



We go down to breakfast. I'd say everyone is recovered from travel and sleep lags!



The plan for the day is for the young ones to go up to Montmartre -- because it is so much part of Parisian history and culture. But I stay back. Sure, I may regret it: doing stuff with the young family is always joyous. Nonetheless, I'm pacing myself. I have a couple of big days coming up, and I've been traveling a lot, and I think a down morning will be good for me. 

So where to, in my solo wanderings? Oh, to the park of course. With an open mind and a smile.

On the way, I pause at my jewelry store du jour. I nearly always pause here and admire earrings and necklaces.  They're locally made and not pricey. I pick one out. Madame asks me (they always ask me this here) -- where are you from? I tell her. It is true that, when asked, I never give a neutral response. There is always a note of disappointment in my voice. They always pick up on it. Here, the shop keeper was especially strong in her condemnation of what's in place right now across the ocean. Words such as fascist and king were used. I listen of course. They have a right to be angry at America right now. (But to the visitor -- me -- they are always kind. Pitying.)



And now the gardens. The Jardin Luxembourg isn't a monolith of sameness. On a weekday, each corner has its very unique visitors. For instance, in the northwest shady enclave, small groups meet up for different meditative exercises. Today I see several and I think -- were this my home, I would seek them out and try to join in.



This one seems to have retired men. Slowly raising their arms. So calm, so beautiful...



The pond is the hub where most visitors like to grab a chair. It's where families with kids gather for the sailboat races.





I sit here for a while, because in the morning, it's still rather empty. Pleasant for me. But soon I get up and walk over to what is really my favorite corner -- the south-west. On a weekday at lunch time (and it is lunchtime by now), local high school kids come here with their food...



But even with their vivaciousness and nonstop conversations, it is a quiet place, with plenty of empty chairs for those who want to just sit and read. Or look at the flowers.



Too, there are the birds: wrens, blackcaps, European robins. Great tits, blue tits and even a parakeet. So says my bird app. And this guy, who is rather silent.



From the park I go to a candy shop. That wasn't the goal. I'm actually in search of a cafe that isn't going to ask me to eat lunch (most cafes in France dont like beverage sippers between the hours of noon and 2:30). But here I am, next to this shop that carries my daughter's favorite caramels. I pick up a pack.



And now I go all the way back to the blocks that are so often my traipsing ground. 

 

 

 

Here, I know there is a coffee shop that just sells coffee. And a few small cakes to accompany it. (Cafe d'Auteur) It's perfect.



I'm back at the hotel by 2:30 and within a few minutes the young family returns. I hear about their morning (it was, predictably, very very nice), Juniper goes down for a nap.

The plan for the late afternoon is for as many of us as are awake to go to the Musee d'Orsay. For the Impressionists. Three qualify (and a fourth would, but someone has to stay back with a sleeping babe). 

Oh, this museum! Such a huge collection of beautiful stuff! There are bottlenecks of school groups, tour groups, and regular old us visitors, but honestly, you can weave your way away from the crowds and even pick your favorites and get photos by them...





And by the time we leave, it really has thinned out.

 


 

 

 


 

 

We leave when it's not quite the hour for dinner yet. It gives us time for a leisurely stroll through the Tuillerie Gardens across the river from the Orsay.

 


 

 

 

 

 

I used to regard these as second fiddle to my beloved Luxembourg Gardens, but I've learned not to compare. The Tuileries have their own special charm.

 


 


They will always have more people in them. Nevertheless, there's lots of peace to be found.

 


 

 

And they have lovely open air cafes for a predinner beverage. Cocktails, mocktails, pick your pleasure.

 


 

 

Juniper and her dad join us here. 





And of course, the big pleasure for the kids is the merry-go-round.

 

 

 

We got them three rides each -- horses, spinning cups, motorcycles -- they rode them all!

 


 

 And then the operator let them have one more ride for free. The girls were ecstatic.

But now it really is time for dinner. Tonight we try something new for me: Parisian food courts! We leave the park...

 


 

 

... and take the metro to the Montparnasse area and find our way to this very industrial looking dining hall. (The place is packed by the time we leave!)

 


 

It's all high tech stuff -- how you order, how you pay -- but it all works well. The adults all choose Vietnamese food, the two girls? Cheeseburgers!



Both Primrose and Juniper loved the place not only for the food, but for this:

 


 

And this:

 


 

It's a long walk home, but we do it! Spirits are high! Besides, it's downhill all the way. (Did you know that Paris is actually a little hilly?)

 

Each day in Paris offers something new. Even if you repeat a path, frequent a familiar store, it is guaranteed that you will experience something entirely extraordinary and different. And of course, add to it the persons you're with and you are in new and exciting territory! At the end of the day, I think -- so much was familiar ground for me and yet -- it was all so beautiful, new, extraordinary!

with love...


Monday, April 07, 2025

Paris

Monday morning in April. In Paris. The young family is here, more rested, ready to take on the city. And oh, do they have the weather for it! I am so glad.

I have 27 photos for you so I am doing better. Time is short though, so I'll keep my sentences on the short side.

Here we go, in chronological order, the 27:

1. Looking out the window in the morning.


I wait for them to wake up and get moving. No need to rush breakfast. (In fact, am I ever known to rush breakfast?) 

By 9 we are all downstairs.

2. The girls try to figure out what's good and what's great from the selections.


3. Juniper is still wondering why she had to get up so early (at 8:30)...


The plan for the day is to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower. I, of course, declined. Great traveler and hiker that I may be, crowds scare me, heights scare me -- Ed laughs that my list of "things to avoid" grows longer every year. He is probably correct in that. 

But I do set out with them.

 4. We walk to the river...


 

 

My daughter had this great idea that we should take the hop-on hop-off boat to the Tower. It gives us the thrill of being on the river, without the need to sit through a whole long journey up and down the Seine.

5. Here comes our Seine "bus!"


6. Juniper is thrilled.


7. The three of us...


8. We get off at the Eiffel Tower stop then cross over to the Trocadero on the Right Bank. From there, you get a commanding view of the Tower, without the current temporary barricades that ruin the view on the Left Bank.


And now for a Tower overload: six Eiffel Tower photos because, well, it's rather grand and especially now, in the spring season.

9. First view -- where I'm sure you'd like to tell you I should have remembered to pack the camera hood (all the photos will necessarily be into the sun).



10 Spring blooms



11. Sisters, at the Tower



12. The young family finally with an unobstructed view of the Eiffel Tower.



13. Walking down now, because they have reservations to ride the elevators to the top.


14. Meanwhile, I find a tiny cafe, far away from the crowds...


15. And sip a cup of herbal tea. With pistachio cake.

 

 

!6. I'm going to throw in one more photo -- a more traditional one of the Tower. What you don't see is the tall wired fencing all around the green space. I shot through the holes in the fencing.


Two hours later, they were back down. Kids liked it, parents checked off an important item from a "Paris musts" list.

17. We go to the Rue Cler market street on the Left Bank, and stop for lunch at Le Petit Cler.



18. Lots of good stuff: a croque monsieur (grilled cheese and ham), a salad with baked goat cheese, an omelette, some meats with bread from Poilane.


19. And ice cream from Berthillon!



20. She ordered "pear." One spoonful and she tells us: it tastes like applesauce. We all taste it. She is right!


21. Energized, playing on the Rue Cler.


22. Still energized...


23. On the walk back, Juniper relays her thoughts on the state of affairs in this world...


And now I think everyone needs a nap!

 

But not for long. Evening is fast approaching and I promised Primrose I would go with her to Yves Rocher before dinner. (In case you're not familiar with it, it's a French cosmetics store that targets a middle income customer.) She's been eyeing my lipsticks and wishing she had brought hers along for the trip. I told her she could choose a color at Yves Rocher. 


24. She chooses a very appropriate for her complexion color.


We meet up with Juniper and the parents at Cafe Varenne for dinner.

Oh, Cafe Varenne! I am monstrously attached to this place and I don't think I've been in Paris once in recent decades, without stopping here for a meal. Usually lunch, but this time my daughter suggested dinner. It was a great call. 

25. Thank you for this picture, sweet daughter of mine! 


It is the season for white asparagus. I order a plateful (among other things).

 

26. Traditional French foods reliably and deliciously well prepared. And the world's greatest waiters.


We sat next to a gentleman from Germany (who kept darting sweet smiles at the girls, whose behavior was impeccable). As we were leaving, I stayed behind a little, to make sure no one left anything. He and I got to chatting. He wanted to know where we were from. Ahhhhh.... America. What is your person doing?? He's crazy! I could not disagree. I owed him a few minutes of listening time, during which he spoke strongly against what was happening in our country. He knew I was comfortable with the French language. He tells me -- move to France, leave that place!

They all think the only answer is to escape.

 

27. Me and the kids, on our way out.


The kids were buoyant on the walk home. Songs were sung, spirits were high. 

Tomorrow, breakfast is going to be very very late. I hope!

What a beautiful day!

with so much love....