Paris

Monday morning in April. In Paris. The young family is here, more rested, ready to take on the city. And oh, do they have the weather for it! I am so glad.

I have 27 photos for you so I am doing better. Time is short though, so I'll keep my sentences on the short side.

Here we go, in chronological order, the 27:

1. Looking out the window in the morning.

I wait for them to wake up and get moving. No need to rush breakfast. (In fact, am I ever known to rush breakfast?) 

By 9 we are all downstairs.

2. The girls try to figure out what's good and what's great from the selections.

3. Juniper is still wondering why she had to get up so early (at 8:30)...

The plan for the day is to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower. I, of course, declined. Great traveler and hiker that I may be, crowds scare me, heights scare me -- Ed laughs that my list of "things to avoid" grows longer every year. He is probably correct in that. 

But I do set out with them.

 4. We walk to the river...

 

 

My daughter had this great idea that we should take the hop-on hop-off boat to the Tower. It gives us the thrill of being on the river, without the need to sit through a whole long journey up and down the Seine.

5. Here comes our Seine "bus!"

6. Juniper is thrilled.

7. The three of us...

8. We get off at the Eiffel Tower stop then cross over to the Trocadero on the Right Bank. From there, you get a commanding view of the Tower, without the current temporary barricades that ruin the view on the Left Bank.

And now for a Tower overload: six Eiffel Tower photos because, well, it's rather grand and especially now, in the spring season.

9. First view -- where I'm sure you'd like to tell you I should have remembered to pack the camera hood (all the photos will necessarily be into the sun).

10 Spring blooms

11. Sisters, at the Tower

12. The young family finally with an unobstructed view of the Eiffel Tower.

13. Walking down now, because they have reservations to ride the elevators to the top.

14. Meanwhile, I find a tiny cafe, far away from the crowds...

15. And sip a cup of herbal tea. With pistachio cake.

 

 

!6. I'm going to throw in one more photo -- a more traditional one of the Tower. What you don't see is the tall wired fencing all around the green space. I shot through the holes in the fencing.

Two hours later, they were back down. Kids liked it, parents checked off an important item from a "Paris musts" list.

17. We go to the Rue Cler market street on the Left Bank, and stop for lunch at Le Petit Cler.

18. Lots of good stuff: a croque monsieur (grilled cheese and ham), a salad with baked goat cheese, an omelette, some meats with bread from Poilane.

19. And ice cream from Berthillon!

20. She ordered "pear." One spoonful and she tells us: it tastes like applesauce. We all taste it. She is right!

21. Energized, playing on the Rue Cler.

22. Still energized...

23. On the walk back, Juniper relays her thoughts on the state of affairs in this world...

And now I think everyone needs a nap!

 

But not for long. Evening is fast approaching and I promised Primrose I would go with her to Yves Rocher before dinner. (In case you're not familiar with it, it's a French cosmetics store that targets a middle income customer.) She's been eyeing my lipsticks and wishing she had brought hers along for the trip. I told her she could choose a color at Yves Rocher. 

24. She chooses a very appropriate for her complexion color.

We meet up with Juniper and the parents at Cafe Varenne for dinner.

Oh, Cafe Varenne! I am monstrously attached to this place and I don't think I've been in Paris once in recent decades, without stopping here for a meal. Usually lunch, but this time my daughter suggested dinner. It was a great call. 

25. Thank you for this picture, sweet daughter of mine! 

It is the season for white asparagus. I order a plateful (among other things).

 

26. Traditional French foods reliably and deliciously well prepared. And the world's greatest waiters.

We sat next to a gentleman from Germany (who kept darting sweet smiles at the girls, whose behavior was impeccable). As we were leaving, I stayed behind a little, to make sure no one left anything. He and I got to chatting. He wanted to know where we were from. Ahhhhh.... America. What is your person doing?? He's crazy! I could not disagree. I owed him a few minutes of listening time, during which he spoke strongly against what was happening in our country. He knew I was comfortable with the French language. He tells me -- move to France, leave that place!

They all think the only answer is to escape.

 

27. Me and the kids, on our way out.

The kids were buoyant on the walk home. Songs were sung, spirits were high. 

Tomorrow, breakfast is going to be very very late. I hope!

What a beautiful day!

with so much love....

Paris

The first thing I did this morning is look outside. Call me boring, but I have to say it -- it's a warm and beautiful day in Paris!

The next thing I did was respond to a text from my younger girl -- "we landed!" she wrote. Yay! I wrote back. I am looking forward to adjusting my pace to that of little Juniper (who is three). My step counter yesterday went nuts. Days like that are fine, but they require rest after. Without that, I'm antsy. (So tired was I last night that at 12:30 a.m., when I tried to unwind and go to sleep, I failed. Lesson learned: I need to slow down.)

And then? Breakfast! 

But I don't linger. I have a task for the morning -- I'm off to find croissants for the arrival of the young family.

I walk over to La Boulangerie La Parisienne. These guys were baguette winners some time back so I figure their croissants must also be up there. It's a nice 15 minute walk past, past the Boulevard St Germain...

... and the church, St Germain des Pres, which gives its name to the entire neighborhood, the Left Bank main drag, and even my hotel. .

 

(a grandma showing her little guy a map and explaining, for some reason, where he can find Venice...)

(the bakery)

(the awesome cakes and tarts highlight the fact that we are in the berry season here already)

(Walking back, I almost turn right to head to my hotel le Baume... not today though. Next time, but not today...)

And the final important thing I did this morning is greet the new arrivals, who arrived just as I was walking up to the entrance of the hotel!

("I think I'm going to like it here...")

(the croissants)

(checking out the ins and outs of the hotel)

They don't pause: they leave their bags, pick up some jackets (it's cool here in the mornings) and we head out.

 

I have handed over the reigns to the parents, who are excellent planners and organizers. I'm here for the ride! 

Our first destination is the market on the Boulevard Raspail. It's maybe a fifteen minute walk at a brisk pace, but it's their first walk and there are distractions. For example -- the dog cafe just up the block. Really, it appears to be for dogs. This one comes out to greet us and seems not inclined to return to the cafe.

(Dancing on the Boulevard...)

(At the market, looking for good stuff...)

(I find these lilacs. So fragrant! I must bring some back to my room!)

(what else?)

(strawberries and tomatoes...)

From here, we go to the food halls at the Bon Marche.  I admire the tomatoes, but we're not here for those...

(Yes, macarons can be added to our loot.)

What we really need is sandwiches. We pick up a couple to share in the small next door park.

 

This particular park has the world's crummiest merry-go-round in that it has maybe 4 or 5 vehicles that go round and round in a very small circle. Nonetheless, any grandchild I have brought here has loved it. These two are no exception.

 

The park also has a playground that really is age appropriate for Juniper. And just barely Primrose (who turned 7 last month).

(macaron time...)

We walk back to the hotel so that Juniper can nap. They all need naps, I'm sure, but the older bunch (and Primrose) are powering through so that they readjust their internal clocks. I feel lucky to be beyond that first tired day.

(the hotel has sweetly provided kid slippers...)

I return to my room and do some photo work. Eventually Primrose joins me...

 

By 4:30, Juniper definitely was not ready to wake up, but one had to insist, otherwise the night would have been a headache for her and for the parents.

 

Where to now? To the Jardin Luxembourg!

(If Juniper is not yet cheered up, she will be soon! The park on a Sunday and a sunny one at that, is magical for kids!)

First stop -- the old fashioned merry-go-round. This guy has been helping kids "catch the ring" for years! Always ready to help the littlest ones, always energetically encouraging them all to do their best.

(she got a few rings!)

(on the second ride, Juniper wants to try... and she succeeds!)

There is a superb playground, but it being Sunday, it's crowded and we are running low on time. The girls settle for swings, and eventually we go down the steps to the big pond, just to watch the boats being pushed forward by kids with sticks.

Dinner is at Breizh Cafe. Definitely the city's best creperie, where the galettes are made with buckwheat flour. Last time they tried this food, neither girl liked it much. Today, they are more open minded.

 

And of course, there are the dessert crepes...

We walk back to our hotel satisfied and happy.

Hmmm... I'm still counting 40 photos here on Ocean. But of course, it's their arrival that upped the numbers! It was celebratory! It was momentous! It was lovely.

Tomorrow I'll slow down. Maybe.

with so much love...