Paris is having a courtship with the most perfect spring weather imaginable. Like all flings and flirtations, it will pass. But the days I am here are incredible! Highs in the low 60F (about 16C), brilliant sunshine -- what more could you possibly ask for?!
I have two full days in the city and though I will surely get my share of walks, I don't want to walk myself to pieces. That was December's mistake. Ed's advice to take cafe breaks seems like a good idea.
For once, I also have a list of expositions that I want to see. Usually I hesitate. One per trip suffices. But this time -- there's stuff worth for which I'm willing to make an extra effort.
So how should I proceed? Well, breakfast first. Unfortunately, my sweet hotel has instituted a frequent stayer program: free breakfast. On the one hand, this is a good thing: it's easy to eat in the same place where you sleep. And of course, there is a savings. But the croissants -- they're good but not exceptionally good.
Tomorrow, I am seriously thinking of sneaking one in from a bakery not too far from here. For today -- I "suffer" with what's here.
After breakfast, I set out on my usual stroll. It always, always starts with the park and this time, there's no question -- Le Jardin du Luxembourg has top priority. It is without doubt my favorite spot in all of Paris.
Walk with me!
(Past the Senate, with an abundance of tulips...)
(Your one view of the Eiffel Tower on this trip...)
(Pink primroses!)
(Quiet paths...)
(Daffodils, past their peak even as in Wisconsin, we haven't even seen the green tip of the emerging stalks...)
(Do they call these California poppies, even though they're in Paris? In a field of yellow primroses...)
I crisscross the park and emerge (as always) right next to the bee hives. They warn you not to walk on the grass here. There are lots and lots of bees!
From here I take the western exit and head to a shop that has enchanting stuff for children and adults. It's sort of eclectic and it's tiny! But it's a great place to poke into because it's at once French and a touch exotic (It's called Le Petit Souk).
And from there, I turn back toward the river. Again, so typical. A route that I repeat again and again. I can't explain why. It just feels good, offering variety, a few "poke in" stores to see what's cookin' in the city, plenty of flower shops to admire...
Lovely streets, so Parisian, each with its own character.
As I get closer to the posh Left Bank department store (which this time I do not enter), I cross paths with many posh looking Parisians. I want you to look carefully at their feet (in the two pics below).
That's right! After decades of poking fun at Americans and their shoes, Parisians have quietly come around: athletic shoes are now accepted attire even among the most carefully groomed. (Of course, not just any athletic shoes. But still, what a turnaround!)
And the sun keeps on shining. There's a lift in spirits, a bounce in the step.
It's all heavenly. Simply put -- heavenly.
By the time I'm ready to close the loop, I notice that it's lunch time and lo! I happen to be in the neighborhood of my favorite lunch place! What a surprise.
I know I promised a new eatery for today, but it wont be at lunch timne. I mean, I'm right by the Cafe Varenne and though it's more crowded than I have ever seen it, the genial waiter finds me a tiny table by the window.
I don't even look at the menu: when he tells me the day's special, I know I'm set. White asparagus with prosciutto and slivers of parmesan. It's spring pickings in the city!
And of course, they do have the world's best lemon tart. So I take that as well.
A few more pokes into familiar shops and then I head back to my hotel. I dump any purchases, drink many gulps of water and head out again. I bought a ticket for a 3:30 entrance to an art event (you can buy it for any hour on the half hour). It's for the Atelier Lumieres presentation of Van Gogh's work, through floor to ceiling images that move and grow and quiver and float, all this is set to music. It is intense!
The goal is to immerse you in the paintings in such a way that you begin to feel the artist's pain and effort and talent from within.
It's crowded, but the space is huge and people settle in everywhere to watch -- on the floor, on steps, standing, sitting, leaning -- however it is that you want to do it.
Typically, I like art in serene settings. And honestly, I can't say that I loved the hour that I spent with Van Gogh. It was a little too intense.
Yet I did not want to leave. I sat through a whole cycle and then a few minutes into its repeat in this dark space, despite the gorgeous weather outside. I've loved Van Gogh's paintings all my life and I suppose I felt this was a good way to add another dimension to my viewing of his art.
I'm no longer feeling like I must walk everywhere in Paris. Since the Van Gogh presentation was a bit of a distance from the center of the city, I took a couple of metros. Hey, I broke out of my habit of staying only on the Left Bank!
In the evening, I do indeed try a new place -- one recommended by the person at my hotel who likes to write restaurant reviews. Here's a twist -- it is completely vegetarian and it views itself also as mildly Italian, so I'm on a roll! (It's called Sense Eat.)
Though Ed and I almost never eat meat, I am not a vegetarian and when I travel and trust the kitchen to source its meats and seafood well, I love to try out dishes that I normally would not serve at home. Still, I'm curious to see if the Italian-French chef can pull off an exciting menu. (Surely the main courses sound original!)
Verdict? I'll let you know tomorrow!
I have two full days in the city and though I will surely get my share of walks, I don't want to walk myself to pieces. That was December's mistake. Ed's advice to take cafe breaks seems like a good idea.
For once, I also have a list of expositions that I want to see. Usually I hesitate. One per trip suffices. But this time -- there's stuff worth for which I'm willing to make an extra effort.
So how should I proceed? Well, breakfast first. Unfortunately, my sweet hotel has instituted a frequent stayer program: free breakfast. On the one hand, this is a good thing: it's easy to eat in the same place where you sleep. And of course, there is a savings. But the croissants -- they're good but not exceptionally good.
Tomorrow, I am seriously thinking of sneaking one in from a bakery not too far from here. For today -- I "suffer" with what's here.
After breakfast, I set out on my usual stroll. It always, always starts with the park and this time, there's no question -- Le Jardin du Luxembourg has top priority. It is without doubt my favorite spot in all of Paris.
Walk with me!
(Past the Senate, with an abundance of tulips...)
(Your one view of the Eiffel Tower on this trip...)
(Pink primroses!)
(Quiet paths...)
(Daffodils, past their peak even as in Wisconsin, we haven't even seen the green tip of the emerging stalks...)
(Do they call these California poppies, even though they're in Paris? In a field of yellow primroses...)
I crisscross the park and emerge (as always) right next to the bee hives. They warn you not to walk on the grass here. There are lots and lots of bees!
From here I take the western exit and head to a shop that has enchanting stuff for children and adults. It's sort of eclectic and it's tiny! But it's a great place to poke into because it's at once French and a touch exotic (It's called Le Petit Souk).
And from there, I turn back toward the river. Again, so typical. A route that I repeat again and again. I can't explain why. It just feels good, offering variety, a few "poke in" stores to see what's cookin' in the city, plenty of flower shops to admire...
Lovely streets, so Parisian, each with its own character.
As I get closer to the posh Left Bank department store (which this time I do not enter), I cross paths with many posh looking Parisians. I want you to look carefully at their feet (in the two pics below).
That's right! After decades of poking fun at Americans and their shoes, Parisians have quietly come around: athletic shoes are now accepted attire even among the most carefully groomed. (Of course, not just any athletic shoes. But still, what a turnaround!)
And the sun keeps on shining. There's a lift in spirits, a bounce in the step.
It's all heavenly. Simply put -- heavenly.
By the time I'm ready to close the loop, I notice that it's lunch time and lo! I happen to be in the neighborhood of my favorite lunch place! What a surprise.
I know I promised a new eatery for today, but it wont be at lunch timne. I mean, I'm right by the Cafe Varenne and though it's more crowded than I have ever seen it, the genial waiter finds me a tiny table by the window.
I don't even look at the menu: when he tells me the day's special, I know I'm set. White asparagus with prosciutto and slivers of parmesan. It's spring pickings in the city!
And of course, they do have the world's best lemon tart. So I take that as well.
A few more pokes into familiar shops and then I head back to my hotel. I dump any purchases, drink many gulps of water and head out again. I bought a ticket for a 3:30 entrance to an art event (you can buy it for any hour on the half hour). It's for the Atelier Lumieres presentation of Van Gogh's work, through floor to ceiling images that move and grow and quiver and float, all this is set to music. It is intense!
The goal is to immerse you in the paintings in such a way that you begin to feel the artist's pain and effort and talent from within.
It's crowded, but the space is huge and people settle in everywhere to watch -- on the floor, on steps, standing, sitting, leaning -- however it is that you want to do it.
Typically, I like art in serene settings. And honestly, I can't say that I loved the hour that I spent with Van Gogh. It was a little too intense.
Yet I did not want to leave. I sat through a whole cycle and then a few minutes into its repeat in this dark space, despite the gorgeous weather outside. I've loved Van Gogh's paintings all my life and I suppose I felt this was a good way to add another dimension to my viewing of his art.
I'm no longer feeling like I must walk everywhere in Paris. Since the Van Gogh presentation was a bit of a distance from the center of the city, I took a couple of metros. Hey, I broke out of my habit of staying only on the Left Bank!
In the evening, I do indeed try a new place -- one recommended by the person at my hotel who likes to write restaurant reviews. Here's a twist -- it is completely vegetarian and it views itself also as mildly Italian, so I'm on a roll! (It's called Sense Eat.)
Though Ed and I almost never eat meat, I am not a vegetarian and when I travel and trust the kitchen to source its meats and seafood well, I love to try out dishes that I normally would not serve at home. Still, I'm curious to see if the Italian-French chef can pull off an exciting menu. (Surely the main courses sound original!)
Verdict? I'll let you know tomorrow!
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