Paris!

Another final day comes around and brings with it these thoughts: there was a time when the end of a trip came with nothing but question marks. Here are some that I recall: did I spend too much? When will I ever travel again? Did I do justice to each day? Did I plan well? Should I start planning the next one? And here's the all important one: what will I bring home with me from this one?

In the past, souvenirs mattered. Photos mattered. Remembering all that happened in my travels mattered. When you get older they matter less simply because memories do mix, and some of them fade, and that shell you picked up from your trip to Florida looks awfully much like the shell you picked up in Brittany France, and that stone with sparkles? Maybe Lake Orta, but it could well be from any trip anywhere at all where there were rocks, which, I admit is pretty much anywhere on earth. The point is that associations between physical objects and places blur. But the memories, sharp or blurred -- they stay with you.

And I have so many from this trip.

Quiet ones: of remembering to walk respectfully on a city street (this one I have from all my travels with my daughter and now with her husband and kids). Funny ones: of Juniper's run for freedom last night as she flew the coop and stood alone gazing out at the Parisian street before her. Visual ones: Tivoli flowers, Luxembourg flowers. Blond braids and orderly bicyclists. Copenhagen rainbows. Sympathetic ones: the patience and pride of a little girl as her young sister gets so many smiles and compliments because she is so darn cute! And ones touching all senses: the bakeries of Copenhagen. The pastries of Paris. Kir vin blanc. On and on...

Then there are the images that circle around the kids, like the bees buzzing around the hives in the Luxembourg Gardens I saw yesterday...

These I think I work hardest on capturing with a camera. Because if the children ever come back here, they wont be five and one any more and so everything will be different with them and for them. There was only one year in which Sparrow put shoes on his hands and crawled around the floors of wherever we were staying making us laugh so hard, only one time where Juniper will drip that slice of pizza into her mouth delirious with joy as we watch and prompt her to do it again. Only one time (well, actually that happened twice!) where I will have had a spontaneous coffee run with my daughter while her children napped. Unlike the rocks and shells and a thousand mementos big and small, these will have left at least a smudge, one that wont be erased.

(breakfast musings)

The young family comes down to eat and I'm with them of course.

Okay, back to our rooms to get ready for our Paris walk!

(Elevator ride...)

We're aiming for the Eiffel Tower. This is ambitious in that this symbol of Parisian everything is nearly an hour away from where we are and that's with big people feet. So we take the RER train to it (and walk back).

And there it is. The Tower in all her gloriousness.

It's a hot day, so getting the kids to stay in one sunny spot for the best photo is hard. Primrose makes valiant attempts, but Juniper has her own ideas. Still, both girls are good souls and eventually it all comes together. More or less.

(And here's Primrose's idea: a selfie with mom)

And we move on. A bit of a rush now because we have a lunch restaurant reservation. 

It's important in that it's at my favorite Parisian lunch eatery and though I've surely been here many times with my daughter and even her husband, this will be a first for their two girls. We walk briskly despite the heat, the hunger, the long blocks. (Pausing only for a quick Madeline fix at this bakery!)

Cafe Varenne. They dont take lunch reservations, but I pleaded and they made an exception and they obliged with a high chair and all in all, the staff of this place is just superb. (Under the expert eye of the proprietor -- the guy trying on Primrose's sun hat!)

(Juniper, who usually cannot be trusted with a breakable plate rises to the occasion here...)

Lentils, chicken, ratatouille, steak -- we ate it all!

And Juniper made friends and Primrose was patient and I got my stubbornly rooted satisfaction of retuning here to this hectic but expertly managed and deliciously delivered place that to me, exemplifies all the best elements of casual and somewhat traditional dining in France.

(best friends with the waiter, who himself has three daughters)

From there, we walk over to the shop that sells great caramels and fruit squares and we stock up on small sacks of those...

(Juniper is suspicious of French chocolate -- gifted by the clerk)

(Both girls do love the fruit jellies. As do I!)

Not done yet! We then walk over to the little park where Primrose so wants to show her sister the tiny merry-go-round.

We are now hitting nap time big time. I still have a couple of things on my list for the day and so we break up: Juniper heads home with her parents for her nap, Primrose and I go to two shops that I pick especially with her in mind: the place of a million notebooks...

And the colorful cutlery store (Sabre) where she is charged with picking out a farmhouse spoon color for herself. She chooses one that cousins wont fight for -- green. Good strategy, little one! Stay clear of the fray.  My strategy as well!

There was to be one final shop, but it's still closed. Primrose is somewhat disappointed that Madame Flo chooses to have a very extended lunch hour today and so we cannot inspect the "special" trinkets and jewelry. Madame Flo is always very unpredictable (and slightly eccentric), but I tell the girl I will come around again before we leave. And I do.

The girls nap.

And in the evening we all head out for a dinner on the Right Bank. It's at a restaurant that I had picked for a family meal back in the 1990's, when soufflés were really at the head of everyone's attention here. Cuisines evolve, but a love of a good soufflé does stay with you. It's a long walk, but we start out early, because Primrose has been promised an old book from the riverside booksellers...

Too, we pause at the Jardin Tuileries -- it's so pleasant in the evening! The breeze is refreshing, the light is less strident...

By 7, we are at our restaurant. It's been around for 70 years! Just like me! 

We order soufflés for main courses and dessert of course. 

A beautiful ending to the day! I wont write a word more: I need to pack and get ready for a very early morning departure. More thoughts and comments? Tomorrow, for sure! Until then, bonne nuit, with so much love...